WINTER PROTECTION OF ROSES 
The best winter protection is to hill earth up around the canes of the bushes to a 
height of at least 8 inches. Take precautions to have these mounds WET when freezing 
weather comes on. If the mounds freeze when dry the bushes may not survive. When 
the mounds are solidly frozen, cover with evergreen boughs or similar loose open material 
to a depth of about six inches. The covering is to keep the mound solidly frozen by 
giving it additional protection against the sun’s rays, and also to keep greater cold from 
penetrating. 
SUN OR SHADE 
The flower of the rose plant has been the chief target of the hybridizers, and in 
some cases a bloom has been created that would stand a lot of sun, In fact, it would 
have to have it or else grow slowly enough in order to give its best colors (see Hen- 
nessey on Roses to further clarify this paragraph). This statement, “a lot of sun,” would 
possibly mean in June when the roses are at their best. That would not mean in August 
when the sun was beating the life out of even the cactus, and with no humidity in sight. 
Different sections of the country have to interpret this more or less. For instance, on 
the northern seacoast a rose plant might go to town with full strong sun, while the 
same sun a hundred miles inland in a hot valley would not be to the plant’s liking, 
even though the bloom was marvelous. 
So I am going to recommend that for all hot areas you plant all of your roses so 
that they will get several hours shade in midday. Rose plants do not like the strong 
sun beating down on them all day long, even though they tolerate it and bloom and 
grow. As many have no other place to plant them, I suggest that they put up a minia- 
ture lath house over them in the hottest weather—that is, if rose blooms are of more 
importance than the looks of a lath house. 
Cae (paths 
