fertilizer at planting. Be very discreet even in using very old rotted manure. Rotted 
dairy manure is rather safe. A heaping tablespoonful of bone meal is good. Thoroly 
mix all ingredients. 
Most small bulbs should be planted just under soil surface. 
An Amaryllis and most large bulbs may have %4 of bulb above surface. When 
placed, the soil may be settled by a thoro watering, once. After that no more water is 
usually needed until after growth begins, altho the soil should not become quite dry at 
base of bulb. A wet condition very long often rots a dormant bulb before they start, 
x later. The soil surface may appear dry and yet be too wet for starting bulbs at center 
of pot. 
Most bulbs should have a cool room, about 60° while rooting. When a bud or 
foliage gives evidence that growth has started, bring the pot to living room temperature 
of about 70° and water slightly. It is not time to water them freely yet. Do that only 
when flowering or in full growth. Do not overwater at any time. Sufficient time 
between waterings must be given to allow water to drain away, evaporate or be absorbed 
by roots so that air penetrates and bathes the entire root system. This is very necessary 
to plants and the roots need not be actually dry to permit it. They must not be water 
logged nor should they become dry. When in full growth and bloom feed the bulbs 
about every 2 or 3 weeks with very weak liquid manure. It should be only amber 
tinted, the color of weak tea. Do not give liquid manure to a plant that is in nearly 
dry soil. Proper feeding will result in luxuriant growth. Too much yellows the leaves, 
because the root hairs are burned off. 
It is very important to continue watering and feeding after bulbs are thru flowering. 
At that time they are rebuilding lost tissues, increasing in size, making offsets and 
finally constructing new buds for next season. At this time they will also store up food 
to support the early growth the next year. This is where most amateurs fail in getting 
results the following year. Some even write and ask me if they should cut off the foliage 
and dry up the bulbs at once, after flowering. Plants are living beings. They feed, 
drink, breathe, grow, react to light and heat and die the same as you if not permitted 
to follow nature’s way. If they do not succeed, however, very many blame the bulbs. 
You will succeed with intelligent care. Blame yourself or the conditions of growth 
when you have an occasional failure and you will thus learn. There is an element of 
chance in growing anything, but it is reducible. That makes it interesting. Match your 
skill against all unfavorable possibilities and learn to overcome them. That is your life 
problem also. There is a cause for everything. Find it. 
ARRANGEMENT OF THIS CATALOG 
. is by Plant Families, not alphabetically. We also try to group more closely related 
plants together. Customers approve this plan because of increased information made 
possible. 
In the following lists, the genus (plu. genera) is mentioned first. After it, the 
species (plu. also species) or horticultural variety is named. Thus we list Amaryllis 
ambigua or Amaryllis “Sibyl Houdyshel,” tho it is more botanically correct to say 
A. hybrida, var. Sibyl! Houdyshel. For the sake of brevity we shorten this. Please note 
the initial of the genus is used for the second and succeeding species. Thus, the initial 
A. may mean Amaryllis, Alstromeria or Agapanthus according to the species listed just 
preceding. 
THE AMARYLLIS FAMILY—Amaryllidaceae 
This family includes the bulbs from Agapanthus and thru The Alliae. 
The American Amaryllis Society is an association of those thruout the world who 
grow Amaryllids as an interesting and intellectual hobby. An annual book “Herbertia” 
of about 250 pages is sent to each member. Therein is discussed the best culture 
methods; descriptions of new species; notes on Amaryllis in their habitat; reports on 
experiments in crossing, culture, propagation, etc. Herbertia is the essential reference 
book on Amaryllids. Beautifully illustrated. 
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