narrow petals and long stamens giving a fancied spidery appearance. The so called 
Red Spider Lily and Golden Spider Lily are Lycoris. Culture. They are hardy in the 
south and may be planted deep on the border-line as in N. Car., Okla., etc. They do 
exceptionally well in pots but are not winter bloomers. 
Hymenocallis sp. Tropical Spider Lily. This appears to be the same as H. rotata 
and H. tenuiflora and these two appear to be one species. This is a large species, with 
pure snow-white flowers over 7” wide. 50c ea. 
Ismene. We will list these in the Spring Catalog as spring is a better time to 
plant them. 
_ Leucojum aestivum. Hardy in north. Blooms often before snow is gone. Dainty 
white flowers, each petal with a vivid green dot. Plant 4” to 6” deep. Do well in 
full sun, a little better in half shade. 10c ea. 90c doz. 
L. sp. unknown. Larger and finer. 25c. Per doz. $2.40. 
Lycoris are natives of Japan and China. A few of them are now scarce because 
none can be imported. The following species is grown almost everywhere in the south. 
Lycoris radiata. Red Spider Lily. Coral red flowers in a several flowered umbel in 
Sept. Flowers are followed by the foliage. Flowers have narrow undulate petals and 
long stamens which give the “spidery” appearance. This is a common flower in the 
south and one of our most beautiful. Hardy along coast to North Carolina and on 
Pacific Coast to Vancouver. In pots it flowers only the first year. 35c ea. Largest 
bulbs, 50c ea. 
We are at present out of Lycoris in the following species: Aurea, Squamigera, 
Purpurea, Incarnata or any other except as listed. Lycoris albiflora, white, is probably 
unobtainable in the U.S. At the close of war we hope to have them all. 
Narcissus and Daffodils 
Both belong to the genus Narcissus of the Amaryllidaceae. Their popularity needs 
no promotion as no garden is considered complete without them. 
Culture. All Daffodils except the Polyanthus Narcissus are hardy both in the mild 
climate of the south as well as in the colder northern states. In the north especially 
it is best to plant the bulbs rather deep where the frost does not reach. Six inches is 
about right. Smaller bulbs like Jonquils may go more shallow and be mulched. In 
_ California too and all the south there is an advantage in deep planting. We plant the 
Trumpets at least 4” deep. Plant September to November. 
Sandy loam is the best soil, but any good rich garden soil will do. The addition 
of thoroly decayed manure is a help. Use no fresh manure. The addition of lime to 
the soil is good, and necessary if leaf mould is used in sandy soils. 
In pots. Narcissi force easily. Pot the bulbs early for earlier flowers, Sept. 
to Oct. The soil should be % sandy loam, 14 leaf mould and perfectly decayed stable 
_ manure (use both or either one). Water the pots well. The Polyanthus varieties like 
Paper White, Chinese Lily and Soiliel d’Or, may be then placed in a cool room and 
receive sufficient water to start growth. But the Trumpet Daffodils and all other hardy 
Narcissus need a more prolonged period under quite cool conditions to promote root 
growth. A good way is to plunge the pots in a cold frame or pit outside in the shade, 
after the first watering, and cover pots with 6” of sand, surrounding the sides well. 
Thus they will be cool and roots will develop. The sand will prevent evaporation. 
As soon as they are well rooted they can be brought inside. Examine the pots 
first in about 6 weeks. The roots should penetrate the soil to the sides of the pot. 
By reversing pots held in both hands and tapping edge of pot one can with care lift 
the pot up to see if roots have reached the proper stage. (This takes about 4 hands.) 
There is no use to try to force the bulbs before abundant root development is reached. 
Only failure results. 
The room temperature for forcing can be about 55° or 60° at night. Not much 
warmer during day. A little more warmth during day will hasten the flowers but 
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