Hardy Perennial Plants 
On these ten pages are packed more information and variety than many a 
large perennial catalog. Strong, sturdy field-grown clumps are offered, except 
for kinds that do best in pots. Perennials are not shipped until late April and 
May as a rule, but ORDER NOW to avoid disappointments. We'll ship at the 
right time. 
Perennials last for years in the 
ground. One plant in New England 
has been recorded at four genera- 
tions. Most need little care, but 
some need dividing every year or 
two and are so marked. 
Hardiness is sufficient to grow most 
kinds up to Zone IV. Extra hardy 
sorts include: Aquilegia, Campanu- 
las, Dianthus, Delphinium, Hemero- 
callis, Iris, Lilium, Peony, Phlox. Safe 
to Zone III or II. 
PLANNING PERENNIAL BORDERS 
Planning a perennial border is an art; but its basic principles 
are simple and can be learned by reading these few paragraphs. 
We have made below two demonstration plans using only such 
material as is offered on the next spread, pages 49 and 50. All 
the facts needed are there given. With the larger choice given 
by the additional four pages of perennials following, improve- 
ments can be made—but the plans are harmonious in color and 
give a show at all times during summer. 
The first step is to run through the lists noting soil requirements. Jot down 
the names of all kinds that interest you and that will grow on your location. 
After each name set a mark to show height—low, medium or tall. Group 
the names in three lots—late, early and all-season bloomers. Now begin 
with the favorite flower. Say, in the sunny border below this is Delphinium. 
It is tall, late. Its spacing is about 12 inches. On paper marked in foot 
squares draw a boundary line covering three square feet (any shape) and 
write 3 Delphinium. This is minimum quantity, as 1 or 2 make no show. 
Now the late garden is established as blue. So a companion plant is 
aH-season bloomer Aster Frikarti (Wonder of Staeffa). This also sets the 
early garden as blue so heighten the early blue effect with a medium tall 
Anchusa. With blues generally, particularly on the lavender side of blues, 
yellow is a fine complementary color. So a yellow Chrysanthemum and 
other yellow plants are used in front to cover the entire summer. For each, 
the planting distance is carefully drawn on the paper. Changes can be 
made with the eraser until you get it to suit available space. 
The Shade border is more complicated only in color blending. On the 
right is an early blue with all season pink, yellow and bluish mixtures 
behind. In the center a blaze of early red and at the left one spot of early 
orange. Later in the summer, on the left is a white, with a rose behind it 
and orange to brown beyond. Then at right are again the all-season 
mixtures of pinks, blues and yellows. Here the favorite plant is Aquilegia 
(Columbine) and the blend of tones in this flower is pink, blues, yellows 
and a little white. Sc the whole garden matches them, with the blazing 
Astilbe for an early tone value. 
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Shady Border 6 x 3 feet 
Complete, 24 plants as below $11.45 

Sunny Border 6 x 3 feet 
Complete, 21 plants as below $8.55 
Key No. Variety Key No. Variety 
A 3 Delphinium Belladonna H 3 Hemerocallis (Unusual 
B 3 Aster Wonder of Staeffa collection) 
C 3 Chrysanthemum Yellow J 6 Digitalis Shirley hybrids 
Cushion K 3 Dicentra eximia 
D 3 Anchusa myosotidiflora L 3 Aquilegia Longspur Hybrid 
E 3 Helianthemum Buttercup M 3 Achillea The Pearl 
F 3 Alyssum saxatile compact. N 3 Astilbe Fanal 
G 3 Coronilla cappodocica ie 3 Ajuga reptans 
Page 47 
Culture, since they are permanent, 
is important. Prepare the soil extra 
deep and enrich with manure when 
planting. Bone meal just before 
flowering, and normal insect spray- 
ing are also necessary, each year. 

PLANTING 
Root clumps. Most perennials come 
as sketched above. Here the main 
object in planting is to work the 
loose earth well in among the roots. 
Spread roots gently to allow of this. 
Then water well for three or four 
days to settle. If growth has started, 
shade as with a strawberry box or 
other available means from direct 
sun first few days. 
Potted Plants. These come without 
the pot, of course, but the mass of 
roots. is already. in’ a” little earth 
ball. All that is needed is to press 
garden earth around earth ball and 
water. Very easy. 
Tap-rooted Plants. Some kinds of 
perennials have a tap root which 
must be preserved; other kinds have 
a tap root which can be cut. If the 
tap root is present on arrival, do 
not break. Dig a deep narrow hole 
and sift dirt down around root care- 
fully. 
Fleshy, bulb-like Roots. These are 
very easy to plant. Merely set shal- 
lowly and firm earth around. If the 
rhizome has eyes (Peonies or Mer- 
tensia) be sure eyes are pointed 
upward and not downward. Actual 
depth is not very important, as they 
will force themselves to right depth 
first season. 

Perennial Pointers 
Showy gardens usually have all 
flower heads cut off after bloom- 
ing, as this encourages more 
blooms quickly. 
Many tall kinds are ruined in the 
first storm unless staked firmly 
and early. 
Some kinds grow too many leaves 
and should be thinned out either 
yearly or every 2nd or 3rd year 
by dividing (noted in descriptive 
lists). 
a Re 

