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Lawn Core 
NEW LAWNS 
SOIL: Lawns can be made on prac- 
tically any soil. Heavy clays or light 
sands should be modified by adding 
plenty of old manure or compost. 
Dig six inches deep only — grass 
roots do not go deeper and loose soil 
is harder to get level. Rake and 
level with heavy timber or ladder 
dragged over the surface. 
FERTILIZER: Do not use manure 
unless well-rotted. Do use 30 lbs. of 
good mixed fertilizer to 1,000 square 
feet applied just before digging. 
SEED: Cheap seed is never cheap— 
you'll spend many dollars fighting 
weeds that could be kept out by 
paying a few pennies more for bet- 
ter seed, Don’t try to grow grasses 
unsuited to your special conditions. 
HOW TO SOW: Sow on a still, 
windless day. Divide area to be 
sown into plots of 1,000 square feet 
and sow 1% lbs. lengthwise and 1% 
lbs. crosswise on this area, Rake 
lightly, roll with empty roller and 
sprinkle gently. 
SLOPES AND TERRACES: Seed as 
mentioned above but cover as soon 
as rolled with burlap or special 
erosion netting, then sprinkle. This 
prevents seed from washing away. 
Burlap will rot and need not be 
removed. 
UNDER TREES: Seed these spots 
as early as possible, before trees 
leaf out. Use plenty of fertilizer as 
tree roots will rob grass of food. 
Water generously. Use shady lawn 
seed. Where shade is too dense, as 
under maples, use a ground cover 
like Pachysandra, Myrtle or English 
ivy instead of grass, 
MOWING NEW LAWNS: Boll 
lightly the day before cutting. Set 
mower at 2 inches: never cut new 
lawn closely. Never let new lawn 
get taller than 24% to 3 inches even 
if some spots are very short. Let 
clippings lay unless weather is ex- 
tremely wet. 
OLD LAWNS 
PREPARATION: Top dress with 1 
inch of compost, old manure, leaf 
mould or with 44 inch of peat moss. 
Work into surface with rake. Sow 
1% lbs. grass seed to every 1,000 
square feet, rake in lightly and roll. 
Then sprinkle gently but thoroughly. 
POLLING: Most lawns are packed 
entirely too hard with the roller. 
The purpose of rolling is to press 
back clumps of grass that have 
heaved during freezing weather. 
Lawn should never be rolled when 
wet or soggy. Allow it to dry off 
first and then use a light roller. 
Heavy water rollers should be empty 
or not more than one-quarter full. 
Usually one rolling in spring is 
enough, 
WATERING 
Because grass roots are shallow, 
watering is difficult without wasting 
water. Unless watering can be con- 
tinued all through dry spells, it is 
better to allow lawn to go dormant 
until rains begin again. Proper 
amounts of humus in soil do much 
to reduce the length of summer dor- 
mancy in lawn grasses. 
6 

FARM SEEDS? Wecan 
supply whatever you need! 
ALFALFA 
A marvelous soil builder and soil re- 
storer. We carry a full range of varie- 
ties, all well suited to this territory. 
CLOVERS 
Alsike — Very hardy. Does better on 
moist land than other varieties of Clo- 
ver. Suitable for hay or pasture. 
Medium Red—The most valuable of 
the Clover family. Makes two crops the 
second year. Does not exhaust the soil, 
but enriches it. 
Sweet, White Blossom—Most abundant 
growth of any of the Clovers. Makes a 
pasture earlier than other crops and 
will keep stock in good condition until 
winter regardless of heat and drought. 
Use to build up worn out fields. 
SEED CORN 
More and more, the problem of 
choosing seed corn is becoming a 
local problem. It’s of prime im- 
portance to have the varieties 
that best fit your own growing 
conditions. 
Our selection is built on in- 
timate knowledge of this district. 

GRASSES 
Brome Grass — Drought defying, re- 
sistant to frost and extreme heat alike. 
Starts 2 to 3 weeks earlier than native 
prairie grasses, and stays green later in 
fall. Produces abundant pasturage and 
enormous crops of high grade hay. 
Chewings Fescue — Widely used for 
putting greens, fairways and tees. Very 
hardy, produces thick, durable turf, 
even under unfavorable conditions. 
Kentucky Blue Grass— Produces a 
deep dark green lawn of close, thick 
turf. Maintains its green color until 
late in fall. Roots deep, plants hardy. 
Orchard Grass — Hardy, quick-grow- 
ing. Gives a large yield of excellent 
hay. May be cut several times during 
season. Not recommended for lawn use. 
Rape—One of the very finest pastures 
for economical production of pork, 
mutton, or beef. A good crop gives you 
12 to 15 tons of green food per acre. 
Red Top—Particularly suitable for wet, 
low spots, as it stands wet weatner bet- 
ter than other grasses. Also does well 
on almost any good, rich soil. Often 
thrives where blue grass fails. 
Rye Grass, Domestic — Fast-growing 
one-year grass. Yields abundantly, and 
matures all in one season. Helpful as a 
nurse crop to other grasses. 
Rye Grass, Perennial — An excellent 
nurse grass when quick turf is needed. 
Does well on moist soils but not long 
lasting. 
Sudan—The ideal emergency hay and 
pasture crop for late planting. Never 
plant until the ground is thoroughly 
warmed. 
Millet, Hungarian—Matures a week or 
so earlier than Golden Millet so can be 
sown later. Makes fine quality hay. 



ASK FOR OUR LATEST LIST 
OF VARIETIES AND PRICES 
Soy Beans—The crop of many pur- 
poses. Excellent for hay, ensilage, grain, 
and soil improvement. Ground soy 
beans are as good or better than Oil 
Meal for mixing with grains in a 
balanced dairy ration. 
We offer the highest quality seed of a 
good range of varieties. Consult us 
about the choice of varieties best suited 
to your own needs. 
Timothy—Unsurpassed as a crop for 
hay. Relished by all kinds of stock, 
especially horses. Not suited for per- 
manent pasture. 
Vetch—A great producer, for hay, pas- 
turage, or silage. Good cover crop and 
soil builder. May be sown spring or 
fall, is not particular as to soil, and 
needs only moderate moisture. 
BENT 
Astoria—An attractive dark green fine- 
bladed grass for fine lawns and putting 
greens. Best of the bents for lawns. 
Seaside—The true creeping type. Forms 
dense sod of beautiful dark green. Will 
stand close cutting and resists hard 
wear. Excellent for putting greens. 
KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS 
Considered by many as our most valu- 
able native grass. It forms a close, thick 
turf of rich dark green. Being slow to 
germinate, use in combination with 
other grasses, especially in making a 
new lawn. Our stock is thoroughly re- 
cleaned to eliminate chaff, weed seeds 
and other foreign matter. 
WHITE CLOVER 
Very desirable in lawn mixtures be- 
cause of its rapid, low growth and 
creeping stems. Valuable as a green 
cover for poor ground. Very hardy. 
Chewings Fescue — A vigorous grow- 
ing fine-bladed grass especially valu- 
able for terraces and shady places. Very 
resistant to heat, drought. 
OTHER GRASSES 
Orchard Grass—Hardy, quick-grow- 
ing. Gives a large yield of excellent 
hay. May be cut several times during 
season. Not recommended for lawn use. 
Rye Grass, Domestic — Fast-growing 
one-year grass. Makes a full crop,yields 
abundantly, and matures all in one 
season. Helpful as a nurse crop to other 
grasses. 
Rye Grass, Perennial—Very good for 
quick covering on new lawns. Makes a 
good growth in a few weeks but will 
not make a permanent sod. 
SEED POTATOES 
Our Certified Stocks are the most 
economical you can plant, be- 
cause they reduce your hazards, 
give you bigger production and 
fewer culls. They are true to name 
. .. grown especially for seed 
stock . . . more highly disease 
resistant . . . tagged for origin. 

