VEGETABLE GROWING CHART 
ASPARAGUS. Seed should be 
soaked 24 hours before planting— 
and covered 2” deep in the garden. 
Thin young plants to 1” apart. Cul- 
tivate often. Set in permanent beds 
in spring. 
BUSH BEANS. Do not plant until 
danger of frost is past. Press soil 
firmly around seeds. Thin young 
plants to about 6” apart. Cultivate 
only before blooming and never 
when wet. Pick frequently, Make 
plantings every two weeks for sup- 
plies throughout the season. 
POLE BEANS. Plant about same 
time as Bush Beans. Poles 5’ to 8’ 
long should be driven into ground 
in rows about 4’ apart with spacing 
of 3’ in row. Run rows north and 
south, Plant 5 to 8 beans around 
each pole, thinning to 4 plants 
later. Hoe frequently. 
Caution: To avoid spreading 
plant diseases, do not cultivate or 
pick when plants are wet. 
BEETS, Plant about same time as 
radishes in deep, sandy loam, Have 
soil fine and loose and press down 
firmly around seed. When tops are 
3” to 6” tall pull them and use for 
cooked greens. Continue this until 
roots stand 6” apart. Plant every 10 
days or so. 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Easy to 
grow wherever conditions are favor- 
able for late cabbage, and requires 
same culture. 
CABBAGE. Set out as soon as frost 
danger is past. Use plenty of good 
commercial fertilizer. Cultivate 
frequently, every 5 or 6 days until 
cabbages are large. For winter stor- 
age, stand plants upright in cold 
cellar, with roots in sand, Slight 
freezing will not harm cabbage. 
CARROTS. Sow early and thinly— 
in light, deep soil, preferably fertil- 
ized the previous season. Thin 
plants when about 2” tall. Keep on 
cultivating frequently throughout 
season, 
CAULIFLOWER. Follow’ same 
methods as for cabbage except that 
heads must be protected from sun- 
light to assure the desirable white 
curd. Gather and tie the tops of 
leaves together loosely to shut off 
light. Do not cramp the heads. 
CHINESE CABBAGE. An easily 
raised succession crop. Set out in 
rows which have been occupied by 
earlier vegetables. 
COLLARDS. Sow seed thickly in 
rich ground and transplant when 
about 4” high—or if plants are to 
remain where sown, spread the seed 
more thinly, and when young plants 
are well started, space them out to 
2’ or 3’ apart in the row. 
CORN. Do not plant until all dan- 
ger of frost is past. Be sure soil is 
16 
well worked and dry—then drop 6 
kernels of corn in a shallow hole 
made with the corner of the hoe. 
Cover each “hill”? with about 1” of 
fine soil pressed down firmly. When 
6” high, thin to three or four plants 
in each hill. Hoe often, but not 
deeply. 
CUCUMBER. The best soil is warm, 
sandy loam—preferably on a slight 
southward slope. Be sure all danger 
of frost is past, and that soil is 
fairly moist and loose. Plant 8 or 
10 seeds to the hill, When 6” tall, 
thin to 3 in a hill. Take fruit as 
soon as it reaches picking stage. 
EGG PLANT. Requires continuous 
warm weather for best results. Seed 
should be started in a hotbed, as it 
is slow to germinate. Set plants in 
open ground when 2” tall and pro- 
tect from hot sun when young. Be 
sure to keep young plants develop- 
ing rapidly. Cultivate freely. To 
produce large fruits, remove lateral 
branches so as to reduce number of 
fruits per plant. Spray to protect 
from potato bugs. 
ENDIVE. Sow at intervals for con- 
tinuous supply. When well started, 
transplant or thin to 1’ apart. To 
blanch, tie outer leaves together 
over the center when plant is nearly 
grown. Just before killing frosts in 
fall, dig the plants, taking plenty 
of soil with roots—pack closely to- 
gether and store in dark cellar for 
winter use. 
KALE or BORECOLE. Requires 
moist, well enriched soil. Pick 
leaves as wanted, or pull whole 
plant. Leaves are best after a frost. 
KOHLRABI. Sow early as possible 
in light, rich soil. When plants are 
in the third leaf, thin to 6” apart. 
Plant at intervals of 10 days for 
succession of bulbs until hot weath- 
er—after which they do not grow. 
Use while still young and tender, 
before skin hardens. 
LETTUCE. Sow as soon as ground 
can be worked—or for extra early 
crops start indoors and transplant 
when danger of heavy frost is over. 
Repeat sowing every 2 weeks to in- 
sure continuous supply. For leaf 
lettuce, thin plants to 6” apart. For 
head lettuce, thin to 8” spacing, in 
rows 18” apart. Lettuce grows best 
and heads best in cool, moist 
weather. 
MUSKMELON. Requires long sea- 
son to develop and is easily injured 
by frost, or even by cool weather. 
Before planting, spade in liberal 
forkful of well rotted manure in 
each hill. Thin plants to 4 per hill 
after third leaf develops, and train 
vines in different directions. Culti- 
vate as long as possible. On moist 
ground use shingles to hold melons 
off ground to prevent rotting. 

PEAS — Later Varieties 
Continued 
Dwarf:Telephone or Daisy — Large 
pods, 414-in. long, broad, straight and 
pointed, containing 7 to 9 large round 
peas. Vines about 24-in. tall. A popular 
main-crop pea. 79 days. 
Telephone—Dark podded, most popu- 
lar late variety. Pods 4% to 54-in. 
long, very large; vine about 40-in. tall. 
75 days. ‘ 
Edible Podded or Sugar 
Mammoth Melting Sugar — Wilt re- 
sistant. Coarse light-green vine, 54-in. 
Single 4%%-in. pods, broad, indented, 
light, blunt, stringless, without fiber, 
fleshy. Contain 7 peas. Seed large, 
round, creamy-white. 74 days. 
PEPPERS — Sweet 
California Wonder Improved—Num- 
ber one quality peppers, about 4-in. 
long and 314-in. diameter, very smooth, 
3 and 4 lobed, glossy green, turning 
bright crimson when ripe. Remarkably 
thick walls, tender, sweet. 75 days. 
Pimento — Excellent for canning or 
stuffing. Smooth, heart-shaped, very 
thick flesh. 73 days. 
Ruby King—Abundant, tapering fruit, 
dark-green changing to ruby-red. 69 
days. 
World Beater—One of the best large 
peppers. Glossy-green, changes to 
bright red. Mild, very sweet, thick 
flesh. 75 days. ; 
Hot 
Hungarian Wax—Slender, waxy yel- 
low fruit about 6-in. long, turns red 
when ripe. Very hot. $5 days. 
Long Red Cayenne—The hot favorite. 
For canning, pickling, drying. Pungent 
flavored fruit, tapering and twisted. 70 
days. 
Red Chili — Low, spreading, 18-in. 
plant. Extremely pungent fruit. Erect, 
conical. 82 days. 
PUMPKIN 
Connecticut Field — Large fruit with 
flat ends, 15 to 25-lbs. and up to 15-in. 
Surface, slightly ribbed, deep orange. 
Thick flesh, orange-yellow, sweet and 
coarse. 118 days. 
Green Striped Cushaw—Medium size, 
smooth, crookneck shaped, white with 
green mottling and stripes. Thick yel- 
low flesh. 115 days. 
King of the Mammoths—Largest of 
the pumpkins weighing 60 lbs. and up- 
ward. Yellow skin mottled with orange. 
Deep orange flesh. 115 to 120 days. 
Kentucky Field — Dull orange, large 
ribbed fruit. Coarse, deep yellow flesh, 
good flavor. 120 days. 
Small Sugar or New England Pie — 
Desirable for pie or general use. 
Round, flat end fruit, deep orange. 
Thick, yellow-orange flesh. 118 days. 
RADISH 
Crimson Giant — Large round, 1 to 
11%4-in. Deep crimson roots. Very crisp 
and tender for its size. 28 days. 
Early Scarlet Globe—Globular, slight- 
ly elongated, bright scarlet. 24 days. 
Early Scarlet Turnip, White Tipped | 
—Carmine red with white tip. Flesh 
white, crisp and mild. 26 days. 
French Breakfast — Roots thicker 
toward bottom. 144-in. long by % to 
34-in. Dull scarlet, white tipped. 25 
days. 
White Icicle—Tapering roots 5 to 5%4- 
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