
NARCISSUS — DAFFODILS — JONQUILS 
The terms ‘‘Narcissus’’ and “Daffodils” are interchangeable; there exists a tendency 
to apply the name “Daffodil” to the varieties in which the trumpet or crown is as large 
or larger than the petals (perianth); while the name ‘“Narcissus”’ is usually used for 
the varieties having small cups or crowns. Jonquils are also a type of Narcissus; they 
usually bear their flowers in clusters and have rush-like foliage. Many of the Jonquil 
Hybrids have only the single flower and ordinary foliage. The name ‘‘Narcissus” is 
correct for any or all of the different types. 
A FEW SUGGESTIONS FOR GROWING DAFFODILS 
They will thrive in any well drained garden soil. Prepare the soil deeply, 12 inches 
or more is best. Plant at least 6 inches deep, extra large bulbs are better planted 7 
or 8 inches deep. (Some varieties make larger bulbs than others.) No manure should 
come in contact with the bulb. If the soil needs fertility, use bone meal at the rate of 
one-fifth pound to the square yard. This should be thoroughly mixed with the soil 
under the bulb. 
A mulch of straw or leaves will be beneficial in very severe climates. If the mulch 
is applied after the first freeze, it will prevent thawing and heaving. 
DIGGING—Daffodils are best dug and separated every two or three years in the 
garden; when used for naturalizing in grass or wooded places they may be left undis- 
turbed for years. Bulbs should be dug when the foliage turns yellow and lays flat on 
the ground, it need not be completely dry. After digging they may be planted at once 
or spread out to dry in a cool ventilated place and planted anytime until fall. Never 
dig in the fall, to do so may cause them to skip one year’s bloom, should they bloom 
flowers will be few and small. 
INDOOR CULTURE 
Pot the bulbs as soon as received in a good loam soil. Some sand and peat moss 
mixed with the soil will be beneficial, also a small amount of bone flour; about two 
pounds to a bushel of soil. Bulbs should be potted shallow, tops of bulbs being about 
level with the top of pot. 
Old pots should be washed thoroughly new ones should be soaked. Place a few 
pieces of charcoal or fragments of broken pots over drainage hole. A little ground 
peat in the bottom regulates drainage and retains moisture. 
Bury the pots outside under six inches of soil or ashes, water well. In 10 to 12 
weeks move to the cellar, or any cool dark place for about two weeks. For a succession 
of bloom bring pots in at weekly intervals, bringing in the earlier varieties first. 
_ Tops should now be several inches above the soil and buds showing. Pots may now 
be brought inside to a temperature of 50 to 60 degrees. Later when the flower buds 
are well advanced the temperature may be increased to not over 65. To put where the 
heat is greater may cause the buds to come “blind’’. A little liquid manure once a 
week will hasten the blooming, and improve the quality. 
TULIP CULTURE 
Best results are to be had by using soil that Tulips have not been grown in for at 
least two years. Growing more than two years in the same soil will eventually lead 
to failure. Do not use manure, if the soil needs fertility, mix bone meal with it at the 
rate of about three handfuls to the square yard. Plant 5 inches deep and at least 6 
inches apart. In very severe climates a mulch of peat moss or leaves will be beneficial. 
This should be applied after the first freeze, and should not be over one inch deep. 
Tulips should be dug and reset each year. Dig when the foliage starts to yellow, 
it need not be completely dry. Store in a cool, dark place, in shallow trays, until fall. 
INDOOR CULTURE—Follow directions for Daffodils, making sure that the flower 
bud can be felt in the green tips before bringing the pots into a temperature of about 
60 degrees. If in doubt, wait a little longer. 
BETTER BULBS CANNOT BE PURCHASED AT ANY PRICE 
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