
FOOD FIGHTS FOR FREEDOM—/n Your 1945 Victory Garden 
THIS YEAR’S QUOTA: 20,000,000 BETTER VICTORY GARDENS! 
On October 25 the War Food Administration declared that 1944 victory gardeners have contributed materi- 
ally to the nation’s food supply. Thousands of tons of fruit and vegetables were freed for the armed services, and 
food of the highest quality has been furnished to their own families. Regardless of when the war ends, the need 
will continue for an abundant supply—as necessary for a proper diet In peace as In war. 
For 1945 the WFA urges that everyone should have a garden who can, large enough for the family’s food 
supply im fresh and preserved form, if possible. City and suburban families with available space, or with access to 
a plot, should again grow vegetables. They will gain in health, and the food which they will produce will add zest 
and variety to the daily meals. So Jet us have Jarger and better Victory Gardens till peace brings plenty. 
VEGETABLE GROWING IS EASY 
Nearby New York you can usually work m your garden, and 
your garden will usually work for you, for 243 days in the year. 
This period of growing weather is made up of three parts, thus: 
March 15 to April 30—45 days during which frosts may be expected. Only 
hardy vegetables will grow. 
May 1 to October 15—168 days, during which frosts are rare. Tender vegetables 
may be grown; hardy vegetables also. 
October 15 to November 15—30 days during which frosts may be expected. 
Only hardy vegetables will continue to grow. 
START IN WINTER 
BEGIN EARLY. Purchase your seeds as soon as you can, 
and buy the best. Sow the following indoors: 
Plant these in February or March. Plant these mn March or April. 
Transfer into the garden in April. Transfer into the garden in May. 
Broccoli . Cabbage Cauliflower Eggplant Pepper Tomato 
Celery Lettuce 
Seeds are placed in shallow boxes or flower-pots filled with sandy 
soil. When the seedlings show through, remove any that crowd. 
Keep at normal living-room temperature, give plenty of light, and 
water them as needed. When the fourth leaf has developed, trans- 
plant them into other boxes or pots 2 inches apart. Transfer them 
to the garden in April and May. 
WHEN MARCH 15 ROLLS AROUND 
TREAT YOUR SOIL GENEROUSLY. If it is either sandy 
or clay-like, when frost has left it and it is no Jonger muddy, 
spread Humus at the rate of 50 Ibs. per 100 sq. ft. Next 
broadcast General Garden Fertilizer at 5 Ibs. per 100 sq. ft.; 
use it even if you decide that the Humus is unnecessary. 
Dig, turning each spadeful, then rake smooth and plant. 
SOW HARDY KINDS OUTDOORS. Frosts will not harm these: 
Beet, Carrot, Kohlrabi, Leek, Lettuce, Mustard, Onion Seed, Onion Sets, 
Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Radish, Salsify, Spmach (true), Swiss Chard, Turnip. 
SET OUT PLANTS OF HARDY KINDS. Those which you raise 
indoors, or purchase: Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Lettuce. 
GROWTH IN ROWS IS RECOMMENDED. Most gardeners like 
to grow vegetables in parallel rows; they may be 12, 18, 24 or more 
inches apart, to permit walking between your plants. 
SEEDS ARE COVERED WITH SOIL by about twice their diameter, 
which means that small seeds like celery are merely pressed into the 
surface; for larger seed, like radish and Jettuce, the drill may be 
about 14 inch deep and for still bigger seeds, like peas and beans, it 
may be 1 to 2 inches. When seeds have been dropped in the groove, 
draw a rake Jengthwise along the drill to cover them; then press 
firm the soil over the seed with the shoe. 
VEGETABLES ARE NOT WATERED, USUALLY.) Except in 
summer, when they may run Into dry weather and need water. 
WHAT YOU DO IN MAY 
SOW SEED OF TENDER KINDS. After May 1, it Is safe to sow 
Snap Beans and Corn. 
‘Two weeks later, you may put in e 
Lima Beans, Cucumber, Melon, Watermelon, New Zealand Spin- 
ach, Pumpkin and Squash. 
SET OUT PLANTS OF TENDER KINDS. After May 15, transfer 
into the garden: Eggplant, Pepper, and Tomato. 
TO GET A STEADY STREAM OF FOOD 
SOW SEVERAL VARIETIES OF THE SAME VEGETABLE 
SUCCESSION CROPPING. This means that you make further 
sowings throughout the summer. As soon as one crop Is harvested, 
spread fertilizer, dig, rake and sow a second one. 
Here are some examples of Succession Cropping. You can work up other 
combinations to suit your needs. 
Beet, followed by Lima Beans, followed by Radish 
Broccoli—Celery Onion Sets—Corn—Broccolt 
Cabbage—Lima Beans—Mustard Onion Sets—Snap Beans—Cauliflower 
Carrot—Snap Beans—Endive Peas—Cucumber—Carrot 
Collards—New Zealand Spinach Radish—Pepper—Lettuce 
Mustard—Snap Beans—Rutabaga Snap Beans—Leek 
Mustard—Tomato—Kale Spmach—Snap Beans—Kale 
Onion (seed)—Endive Turnip—Eggplant—Cabbage 
INTERCROPPING or COMPANION CROPPING. This 
is a principle of growing two crops in the space which ordi- 
narily is occupied by only one, by placing quick-growing 
plants with, or alongside, slower ones. An example 
would be tomato plants with a hill of beans or a Iettuce 
plant between them. When beans are picked or lettuce 
cut, a kale plant replaces them; beans and lettuce mature 
before tomatoes need all the space, kale continues to de- 
velop after first frost kills the tomatoes. 
Other space-saving companionships may be worked out from the following 
two lists of slow and quick kinds: 
SLOW, needing nearly all season: Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, 
Corn (tender), Eggplant (tender), Kale, Leek, Onion Seeds, Parsnips, Pepper, 
(tender), New Zealand Spinach (tender), Swiss Chard and Tomato (tender). 
QUICE: Crop grows before partner needs all space, or after partner (if tender) 
is killed by first frosts. Beans (tender), Beet, Broccoli, Carrot, Collards, En- 
dive, Lettuce, Mustard, Onion Sets, Peas, Radish, Spinach (true), and Turnip. 
Before closing drills in which Beet, Carrot or Swiss Chard are sown, a few 
seeds of Radish may be sown at half rate (140z. per 100 running feet or 1 pkt. 
to 50 feet). Radish comes un quickly, tells you where the row is and enables 
you to start hoeing early. Thin the plants to individuals and when Radishes 
are mature, they may be pulled and the Ionger-season crop will suffer no 
injury. A three-partner combination is to sow Parsnip, Beet and Radish, all 
in the same row. You get a fair crop of Radish, later a good one of Beet and 
at the end of the summer a full crop of Parsnip 

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