may be used in place of spray but is less effective. Spray June {5th 
until fall. 
RED SPIDERS cause leaves to turn brown and wither. Insect is almost in- 
visible to naked eye. Control by spraying or dusting with sulphur 
compounds. 
APHIDS cause a lessening of vitality. Easily detected as they usually con- 
gregate in clusters. Spray or dust with contact insecticide whenever 
they appear. 
CUT WORMS cut off the young plants close to the ground. Poison bran 
mash scattered over the garden is most effective control. 
TARNISH PLANT BEETLES cause shortening of the nodes between leaves and 
excessive branching. Cause buds to open one-sided and shorten flower 
stems. May also entirely prevent blooming. Control by striking insects 
with pyrethrum spray. Control is difficult as they move away rapidly at 
any disturbance. Bordeaux. Mixture has been found to be a fairly good 
repellant and we prefer it to pyrethrum. 
LEAF EATING INSECTS including worms and caterpillars can usually be 
controlled easily with a good stomach poison, spray, or dust. 
Considerable success in keeping down the ravages of pests has been obtained by 
some growers by frequent, over-head watering, during the hottest part of the day. The 
water is turned on for a couple of hours every two or three days. This method is more 
practical on light, well drained soils than on the heavier soils which may become 
saturated to the detriment of the plant. 
DISEASES rob the plants of vitality, and in the case of some diseases, eventually 
destroy the plants. Control methods require destruction of all infected plants as the 
symptoms become apparent. Control of insects prevent spread. 
MILDEW, common in the fall, is well-known. Control by dusting the under side of 
lower leaves with dusting sulphur, about Sept. Ist. One application will suffice for the 
season. 
After the frost has destroyed the plants in the fall cut the stalk off at the ground. 
An ordinary saw is fine for this. If possible leave the clump in the ground for a week 
or ten days before digging. A long tined fork is best for digging the clumps. Be 
careful not to break or even strain the necks of the tubers. One person, with a fork, on 
each side of the clump to be dug can lift the clump out with less damage. Do not leave 
the clumps exposed to the sun or wind for more than a few minutes. If the clumps are 
too moist to store at once dry them off a bit in the shade or basement. Cut the stalk 
off to within a couple of inches of the crown. This largely helps to prevent stem rot 
later. Store the clumps in containers well lined with newspapers to keep out the air as 
much as possible. Keep the containers in a cool frost-proof basement. After the clumps ~ 
have been stored for three or four weeks examine them for stem rot or other decay. If 
decay has set in leave them exposed to the air for a day. Splitting the clumps in two 
will help prevent stem rot. Trim out any decayed parts and dust with sulphur. A little 
sulphur sprinkled over the clumps when they are put in the containers will prove bene- 
ficial. If the clumps show signs of shriveling moisten them with a little water and add 
more covering. 
The clumps may be divided at any time but it is best to wait until the eyes or 
sprouts show distinctly. Never plant the entire clump. For best results divide it so that 
there is but one sprout to each division. Usually good clumps will average four or more 
divisions. 
We will be glad to answer any further questions regarding these or any other 
phases of dahlia culture. OUR SERVICE DOES NOT END WITH THE SALE. 
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