In the early spring, mulch rose beds with either cow manure, peat moss or 
lawn clippings. Cow manure is excellent if clean, but foul weeds and insect 
pests may be brought into the garden through it. Feed each plant a half tea-cup 
of a well balanced commercial fertilizer every two months during the growing 
season. 
If you do not use a mulch, cultivate the ground lightly after each watering; 
just enough to break the crust. Deep cultivating cuts the feeding rootlets. 
Keep the roses well watered in summer. Allowing them to dry and go dormant 
causes the bushes to defoliate and sunburn. 
Ground canes are the best wood on a rose bush. They are the soft new canes 
coming from around the bud union, with foliage and thorns identical to the older 
growth. Suckers come from below the bud union and have entirely different 
foliage, thorns and color. Suckers should be cut out as soon as identified. 
PRUNING 
Pruning is very important. We can not give complete instructions on pruning 
that will apply to all varieties and in all sections of the country. However, there 
are general rules that can be followed. As roses are produced on new wood, 
vigorous growth must be encouraged. During the dormant season, leave the new 
wood and cut out as much of the old wood as is possible and yet retain the form 
of the plant. Cut back about half of the previous year’s growth, cutting 4% inch 
above a leaf that is pointing on the outside of the bush. All dead and weak wood 
should be eliminated. Proper cutting of roses should be sufficient for summer 
pruning. 
CUTTING ROSES 
In cutting roses, always leave three or four leaves of the new blooming wood, 
cutting about 4 inch above a leaf on the outside of the bush. 
Cutting roses in the late afternoon has been proven to be the most satisfactory 
time. Double roses should be cut as the petals begin to unfurl, single roses as the 
sepals separate, showing the color. Mash or split the ends of the stems about a 
half inch and plunge immediately in cold water up to the neck of the rose. Leave 
out of doors over night. Occasionally a variety will keep longer by plunging the 
ends in boiling water. Charlotte Armstrong is one of these. 
PEST CONTROL 
Roses, like all living plants, have pests and diseases which attack them. 
These may be controlled with a little effort. 
The most common of the diseases are mildew, rust and in some sections, 
blackspot. In a warm climate dusting lightly once every ten days with sulphur 
is very effective. Be sure the dust strikes the underside of the foliage. 
In cool climates, a liquid spray must be used. There are a number of excellent 
control sprays on the market that can be obtained in your own locality. Pyrethrum, 
Rotenone or Nicotine may be added to control insects. 
A clean-up spray in the winter applied immediately after pruning, consisting 
of ten tablespoons to the gallon of water of either Bordeaux spoons of either 
Bordeau or Lime Sulphur to a gallon of water is very effective in cleaning up rust 
and mildew spores. Old leaves should be picked up and burned. 
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