Vegetable 
Radishes 
THE SPACE FOR RADISHES. Your garden space 
may_be limited and if you do not care to set aside a 
special place for radishes, plant them in odd corners 
and even right with other crops. They are out of the 
way quickly, and if planted with slow-growing root 
crops, such as parsnips, beets or carrots, the space 
will never be missed. 
Any soil will grow radishes, but if the roots are to be 
at their best, crisp and brittle, they must grow quickly, 
A rich sandy loam is ‘“‘quick soil’’ and this is the kind 
that radishes should have. Avoid the use of fertilizers 
containing a surplus of nitrogen such as manure, as this 
causes a rank growth of the top at the expense of the 
- root. However, manure applied in the fall or summer 
before is very beneficial. 
FOR SPRING AND EARLY SUMMER. The short 
round and turnip-shaped radishes may be grown 
quickest. At that time there is plenty of moisture in the 
soil. The varieties like Scarlet Globe, Sparkler and 
Trench Breakfast reach edible stage in three and one- 
half to four weeks and they should be used soon. In 
order not to overdo the supply, sow a little radish seed 
every few days. Then you will have them right along in 
good condition. If you have a hot-bed you can have 
radishes very early for your table. 
White Icicle and the Crimson Giant Globe are fine 
varieties for late spring and early summer. They grow 
with surprising rapidity and will reach down after soil 
moisture, of course, better than the round varieties. It 
has been our experience that they will stay in good 
condition in the ground after making their growth with- 
out becoming hot and pithy. Some people choose Icicle 
for summer planting. 
RADISHES FOR SUMMER. The round varieties 
will not do at this time of year unless the season is 
exceptionally cool and moist—the long varieties such as 
Long Searlet, are best for late planting. Long Scarlet 
will stand heat, it grows deep for moisture and it stays 
brittle and crisp for a considerable time. Under good 
conditions the roots should be edible in 40 days. 
One ounce will plant a 100-foot row. 
RADISHES FOR WINTER. Winter radishes should 
not be planted until August and then plant the Chinese 
varieties. These grow slowly and some have enormous 
roots. They will need much more space in the row than 
the early varieties—sow them accordingly. Pull the 
roots late in the fall and store them in sand in the 
cellar. Winter radishes allow you to extend the radish 
season through practically the entire year. 
One ounce of the seed will plant a 150-foot row. 
Rhubarb 
It goes without saying that you like Rhubarb pie 
and sauce. A few Rhubarb roots well established will 
yield abundantly for years. 
You may grow your own roots from the seed if you 
wish but you will save time and patience if you buy the 
roots already grown healthy and vigorous under expert 
care. Like asparagus, it will pay you to make the soil 
very rich for rhubarb, working in manure before setting, , 
and every season after. 
Set the plants in the spring or fall four or five feet 
apart each way—leaving the crown even with the sur- 
face of the soil and packing the earth well. Do not cut 
any stalks the first year but let the roots establish 
themselves. 
Salsify 
Salsify is called vegetable oyster because it adds the 
flavor of the oyster to soups. The roots may also be 
boiled or fried. : 
For late summer and fall use, plant the seed early in 
the spring, making the rows 15 or 18 inches apart and 
allowing each plant five or six inches in the row. The 
soil should be deeply worked, and the richer the better. 
The roots are perfectly hardy and may be left in the 
ground all winter to be used as you want them. Use 
before growth starts in the spring however, as they 
deteriorate rapidly then. The seed for this late crop may 
be started in June, and if you do not wish to leave the 
roots in the ground, take them up for storage in the 
cellar or pit outdoors. 
One ounce of seed will plant a 50-foot row. 
Spinach 
This most popular of all green crops is a very healthy 
food and is being grown more and more as the fact 
becomes better known. Spinach greens rightly prepared 
are delicious as well as healthful. : 
The ordinary varieties, like Bloomsdale, will not 
stand the hot, dry weather of mid-summer without 
shooting to seed. For early summer use plant seed of 
Bloomsdale as soon as you can get on the ground in the 
spring. Make the rows 12 or 15 inches apart and begin 
to thin the plants as soon as the leaves reach any size. 
In from 50 to 60 days you will have plenty tocut. 
For later plantings use New Zealand Spinach which 
is an entirely different type, but just as good quality 
and one that will stand mid-summer weather. Then 
again in the fall plant more Bloomsdale and the plants 
will live over winter without protection in the south and 
with only the slightest protection of straw in the north, 
One ounse will plant a 60-foot row. 
49 
Cultures for Victory Gardeners (4) 
Squash 
Squashes are grown just like pumpkins—and they 
like the same kind of treatment. 
The bush varieties like Yellow Bush Scallop need to 
be set only 3 x 4 feet apart, while the winter varieties 
that have long running vines need 6 x 10 or 12 feet. 
You should grow squash for summer, fall and winter 
and the catalog will help you choose the right va- 
rieties. The early summer varieties are rather soft 
shelled and will not keep for long. They should be used 
while young and tender, before the shell is too hard to 
pierce with the finger nail. The standard winter variety, 
the Hubbard, has a very hard shell and under good 
conditions will keep practically all winter. Gather them 
when the shell has hardened and the tops are killed 
by frost. 
Under another heading we tell how to keep squash in 
storage. 
Of the small bush varieties one ounce will plant about 40 
hills—of the large seeded varieties one ounce will plant 
only 10 to 26 hills. 
Swiss Chard 
Swiss Chard really belongs to the beet family but the 
tops are the edible portion of the plant instead of the 
roots—explaining the name ‘“‘Spinach Beet.” 
When full grown the leaves spread out to a width of 
10 to 24 inches so the seed should be planted in rows 
2 foot apart. Cover the seed about 1 inch deep and thin 
the plants to stand a foot apart. Use the thinnings for 
greens. Chard likes quite rich, moist soil—then the 
leaves will be juicy and tender. The heavy stalks of the 
plants may be prepared like asparagus and the leaves 
as greens. 
One ounce of seed will sow a 50-foot row. 
Tomatoes 
CHOICE OF VARIETIES. There are several classes 
of tomatoes so choose the ones that best suit your ideas. 
The dwarf or tree tomatoes (New Stone) form com- 
pact, upright plants that require little space and they 
may be set as close as 114 x 214 feet. If you have not 
much room grow a dwarf variety. 
For slicing and salads in the summer have a few 
plants of a very early variety like Break O’Day. Under 
ordinary conditions Break O’Day will give you ripe 
fruit in about three months after the seed is started. 
In latitude of Cleveland we have them the latter part 
of June. 
For the main crop there is a wide choice of varieties 
and the catalog will help you choose those you want. 
The yellow varieties make very rich preserves. 
CULTURE. Tomatoes are tender to frost and cold 
and the seed should be started in a window box or 
hot-bed about two months before safe for outdoor 
transplanting. In our latitude seed started the latter 
part of March will make plants ready to set out the 
latter part of May or June Ist. Transplant them once 
before setting outdoors if possible as you will get 
stockier, better plants. 
The soil for tomatoes can easily be too rich. Soil 
containing a surplus of nitrogen grows rank tops and 
cuts down the yield of fruit. Some of the best tomato 
crops are grown on light sandy soil. It is a good idea to 
plant tomatoes on soil that has been fertilized liberally 
the year before. 
Set the plants of the vining varieties at least four feet 
apart each way. The dwarf varieties require less space, 
and the question of space depends also upon whether or 
not you support the vines. The advisability of this is 
really an open question. If you train the plants to a 
single stalk, keeping that stalk tied to a stake as it 
grows, your tomatoes will probably be finer specimens 
and there is less danger of rot. Some growers support 
the vines with barrel hoops nailed on stakes surround- 
ing the plant. There are numerous ingenious ways of 
doing it. In a wet season the results will undoubtedly 
be better if the plants are supported so that the fruit is 
held off the ground. 
Straw spread under the vines as the fruit begins to 
ripen will aid in giving you clean, well colored fruits. 
Whatever method of growing you adopt be sure to 
cultivate the plants frequently after you set them out. 
Keep a good dust mulch on the surface and pick the 
tomatoes just as soon as they ripen. 
One ounce will produce about 2,500 plants. 
Turnips 
The turnip is a vegetable that certainly pays for 
itself. The amount of food obtained from a crop of 
turnips is very great. 
Give them a fairly rich, loose, deeply worked soil. 
This will allow the roots to grow freely. 
The main crop of turnips is usually started the middle 
or latter part of July. The roots grow rapidly in the 
cool, fall weather and are stored in a pit or in the cellar 
for winter. The seed for the main crop may be planted 
in rows or sown broadcast. It is customary to use the 
space some early crop has occupied. After the early 
crop is harvested work the soil and if it is very dry wait 
for a rain before sowing your turnip seed. If in rows 
make them 18 inches or less apart and thin the plants 
to- stand five or six inches apart in the row. 
It is possible to grow an early crop of turnips also by 
planting the seed just as early in the spring as the soil 
can be worked. Plant in rows, covering the seed one- 
fourth to one-half inch deep. (Ready in 50 days.) The 
Extra Early Milan and the Golden Ball are excellent 
varieties for early spring planting. 
One ounce will sow a 150-foot row. 
“Cold Pack” Canning 
One Good Method 
Although there are several methods used for canning 
vegetables we believe that the Cold Pack Method 
offers the one best way. It is simple, easy for a be- 
ginner to learn, requires no complicated equipment. 
THE HOME MADE OUTFIT. All that is necessary 
is a vessel to hold the jars or cans, such as a wash boiler 
or large pail. This vessel should have a tight fitting 
cover and be deep enough so that water will cover the 
top of the jars at least one inch. Make a false bottom of 
wood, or a wire rack to allow of free circulation of water 
under the jars. The wood bottom may be made of 
perforated boards or of lath or similar strips of wood 
nailed to cross pieces. A strip of wood around the edge 
of the rack will prevent the jars slipping off when lifting 
the tray out of the cooker. If furnished with handles 
made of heavy wire the tray may be lifted out of the 
cooker entirely. 
CONTAINERS. All types of jars that seal perfectly 
may be used. New rubbers should be purchased each 
year, but the glass jars may be used indefinitely. Be 
sure that no jar is defective. The jars should be heated 
Deore the cold product and boiling water is put in 
them. : 
THE VEGETABLES. In the first place, select only 
good, sound specimens, and if possible can them a few 
hours after picking. 
Steps in Cold Packing 
After the vegetables are selected, washed and cut as 
you want them, they are blanched, cold dipped, packed 
and sterilized as described below and in that order. 
BLANCHING. This term means simply plunging 
the vegetables into boiling water, or exposing them to 
steam for a short time. The time for blanching varies for 
different vegetables, and this information is given in the 
accompanying table. All you need is a pail of boiling 
water ready on the stove. Place the vegetables in a 
cloth, or some porous container, (a wire basket is fine) 
dip them in the boiling water for the required time. This 
blanching process removes excess acids, improves the 
flavor, and causes some shrinkage. As soon as blanching 
is finished, plunge them into cold water. This is called 
the Cold Dip. 
THE COLD DIP. Do not allow them to stand in 
cold water, but simply plunge in and remove several 
times. This hardens the pulp and helps the vegetables 
to retain color. 
PACKING. After the Cold Dip, pour the vegetables 
into the containers, leaving a quarter or half inch of 
space at the top, and with all vegetables add one level 
teaspoonful of salt to each quart container, and then fill 
with boiling water. Fit on the rubber and put the lid in 
place, but loosely only. 
STERILIZING. This is done either in a special 
steam pressure boiler, or in the home equipped boiler 
outfit described above. The length of time for sterilizing 
each vegetable is given in the attached table. The time 
should be counted from the time that the water begins 
to boil. Enough water should be in the boiler to come at 
least one inch above the top of the containers. Do not 
let it drop below. 
en the time is up, lift the containers out of the 
boiler and fasten the covers on tightly at once. Turn 
them upside down to test for leakage and leave in this 
position until they are cool. Do not set in a cool draft 
at this time, as this may break the glass. 
TABLE. This gives the time required, when the 
Home Made Hot Water Outfit is used. 
Minutes to Minutes to 
Blanch Sterilize 
ASPALAGUS ews cite Myce sate alaerene 10 to 15 120 
IBGGUS se tonalerentets loch ot utereteee os eeare 5 90 - 
Brussels Sprouts...........++06 15 to 20 120 
Beans S6ringrere sac tiiereeeaere 5 120 
Beans), Lama) ore oe screredeve cere ‘ 5 120 
Cabbagze's oeiciatereineis a deuscea ae © : 15 120 
Cauliflower aerics metecte man ects ; 15 120 
CALE Obicononsiste HOt seohoney ores eerev ere 5 90 
Corn: (on cob or off)... 6.22. .t 66 10 180 
Greens (in steam).............. 15 120 
Okrah ci aide resi teltoseete ee eer 5 120 
IBATBNIPA ese aleriwelesist’ o ai et eeketatare 8 120 
Peas steectretectalsteciote vu oinseisters 8 120 
Pumpkin; ccs amraes pater avon Giterere 3 120 
Peppers (sweet or hot) ......... 8 120 
imme mtosse iacrstonet have over n Whereis tl ene Roast 35 
ISEISEEY. srotene Grerthere aietcan ats cue emnesghele 5 90 
Bawah’. citecetc a revere orenscseete saat 5 120 
Tomatoes’ se % 0.6 oie rere ‘, (To loosen skins) 20-25 
"TPULNIDB ioe a: hesdie sane ore alalinletete OTC. So 90 
seb ESS Se SSS SS TCT SESS SST SSSR San 
