cuicaco mnenican “Bulb Comfany NEw vorK 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS by Avex Laurie 
Continued 
SHADING 
Since the chrysanthemum is a short-day plant, the 
use of black cloth artificially shortens the day and 
induces earliness of flowering. Standards should be 
pinched 30-35 days before shading and they should 
be at least 15-18 inches high before shading. Pom- 
pons may be pinched just before shading. The black 
cloth should completely enclose the plants and is 
applied at 5 p. m. and removed at 7 to 7:30 a. m. 
Nothing is to be gained by allowing the cloth to 
remain over the plants for a longer period of time. 
Double duty may be secured by shading one bed 
beginning at 3 p. m. and leaving it on until sun- 
down and then moving the cloth to another bed 
and removing it at 9 a. m. The cloth may be applied 
every night except one for each week, but continuous 
shading is preferred. When the buds of standards 
are the size of a nickel or when pompons show color, 
the use of black cloth may be discontinued. On the 
early varieties, flowers may be expected approxi- 
mately 8 weeks after shading. Since chysanthe- 
mums set their buds normally around September 1 
there is no point in beginning to apply black cloth 
after this date. The black cloth is supported by wires 
over the plants. 
LIGHTING 
To delay flowering, chrysanthemums may be 
lighted. Reducing the house temperature to delay 
flowering impairs quality. Not all varieties respond 
favorably to light, and if carelessly and improperly 
used it may injure the crop. The last pinch should be 
made 10 days later than normal to prevent long 
necks and imperfect flowers. There are several meth- 
ods of applying light. One is to begin applying light 
August 10-15 and run for 2¥%2 hours each night be- 
ginning after dark. Use 40-watt bulbs, 3 feet above 
the tops of the plants, spaced 4 feet apart. Continue 
lighting for approximately the same number of days 
as is wished to delay flowering. To prevent heavy, 
clubby growth, keep the nitrogen level low and raise 
the temperature to 55° F. 
To spread the crop over a longer period, but not 
actually delay flowering, lights are applied after 
the buds are the size of a nickel. Use the same spac- 
ing and duration of light as previously described. 
PEST CONTROL 
Chrysanthemums are attacked by many insects 
and allied pests and these must be kept in check if 
high quality is expected. (Fig. 8.) 
Red spider attacks both leaves and flowers. When 
on the flowers very little can be done to control them 
without damaging the flowers. No-Py-Ro at 1-400, 
Loro at 1-600, or 1-800, with Grasselli Spreader-Sticker 
at 1-1200, or Dowspray 17 at % lb. per 100 gallons 
IRFAU Goes aVVi pln Vine: 

Grow your outdoor mums under cloth for best results. 
may be used. The first two are oil sprays and the 
latter is a sulphur type—mixtures of oil and sul- 
phur, in the spray tank or alternation on the plant 
cause severe injury. Loro may stunt pink and white 
varieties. Azobenzine fumigation is very effective. 
Aphids are controlled by cyanide or nicotine fumi- 
gations. Nicofume at 1-400 is also effective with soap 
at 1 cubic inch per gallon or Grasselli Spreader- 
Sticker at 1-1200 are used. 
Thrips are troublesome, as they come in from 
weeds outside the greenhouse or under the bench. 
Use 2 lbs. of tartar emetic or 2 quarts of SALP with 4 
lbs. of brown or white sugar to 100 gallons of water. 
Since tartar emetic is slowly soluble, the solution 
should stand for at least 12 hours before using or 
very hot water must be used to quickly dissolve it. 
Greater concentrations of sugar may burn the foliage. 
Nothing is to be gained by using a low pressure 
with a coarse nozzle, as thrips rasp the foliage and 
large drops of the material do not cover the foliage 
effectively. A fine mist produced by high pressure 
should be applied to the upper surface of the foliage 
to thoroughly cover it. D. D. T. is very effective. 
Leaf roller must be controlled early before the fol- 
iage becomes too thick to cover it easily with insecti- 
cide. A dust of 15 parts lead arsenate and 85 parts 
sulphur is very good. Lead arsenate 2 lbs., and lime 
2 lbs., in 50 gallons of water is useful before the 
foliage staining is objectionable. SALP or tartar 
emetic sprays are very effective. No-Py-Ro at 1-400 is 









