CHICAGO American Bulb Eompany NEW YORK 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS by Axex Laurte 
Continued 
POMPON GYPSY. A light reddish 
bronze that is ideal as a pot plant. 
Having chosen the vari- 
eties which answer the 
proper requirements, it is 
necessary to start the cut- 
tings late enough so that 
no leggy growth develops. 
Woody growth will prevent 
proper branching and leave 
a bare stem at the base of 
the plant, making it un- 
sightly. In addition, the 
lower foliage on hard stems 
will drop off. Cuttings may 
be started in late May or 
; June and grown on from 
2¥%2-inch pots through 
gradual shifts to 6- or 7- 
inch pots. At no stage of 
development should plants be permitted to become 
pot bound until after they reach their “finishing” 
pot. The soil used should be fully as rich as that 
advocated for bench stock. At least one-quarter by 
volume should consist of manure and peat, together 
with additions of superphosphate or a complete 
(4-12-4) fertilizer to the potting soil. Superphosphate 
(20%) may be mixed at the rate of a 4-inch potful 
to a bushel of soil and should be supplemented sub- 
sequently by applications of half a teaspoonful of 
ammonium sulphate to each pot above a 4-inch size. 
If the complete mixture is used in the potting soil, 
further additions may not be necessary between the 
shifts, but after the plants have been potted in their 
last pots, further additions of fertilizer may be made 
until the buds show color. In all cases the substance 
and vigor of the plant should indicate the necessity 
for fertilization. 
A simpler method, reducing labor, is the potting 
directly from 2¥2-inch pots to the finishing pot, which 
may be a 5S-inch or a 6-inch pot. True, more room is 
used but the quality is better and space is cheaper 
than labor. Care in watering until properly estab- 
lished is important. 
The best method to produce bushy plants is by 
potting several cuttings in a 6- or 7-inch pan. 
Three plants may be set in a 5-inch or a 6-inch pan 
and five in a 7-inch pan. Potting soil should be low 
in nitrates and the plants kept on the dry side until 
thoroughly established. By proper pinching, sym- 
metrical plants are produced without trouble. 

Whichever method is used, the success in pro- 
ducing dwarf, bushy plants depends upon a con- 
sistent system of “pinching.” The center of each 
shoot should be pinched out to induce other shoots 
to develop from the axillary bud and below. The 
operation is usually continued at weekly intervals 
until about August 15 for the early flowering, and 
September 1-10 for the late flowering kinds. The 
PAGES FOURTEEN 
disbudding of these potted plants is unnecessary, 
although it is sometimes practiced. 
Another method in common usage is the setting 
out of plants from 2'2-inch pots in frames or nursery 
rows where, under irrigation and proper cultiva- 
tion, they assume large size. The chief drawbacks to 
this method are twofold. In the first place, their very 
size necessitates large pots in potting to accommo- 
date the large mass of roots formed. If these are 
disturbed or cut off in the potting the foliage will wilt 
and many of the lower leaves may drop off. Sec- 
ondly, there are such pests as tarnished plant bugs 
and leafhoppers which do much damage out of 
doors, where control is difficult. Tarnished plant 
bugs may produce so much blind wood that no 
flowering will take place. 
Miniature pot plants may be secured by taking 
cuttings of flowering shoots in August, placing them 
in a propagating frame out of doors, and as soon as 
rooted, potting them individually in 3-inch pots. If 
desired, several may be potted in a 6-inch pan. 
These plants should be kept shaded and syringed 
frequently until they become thoroughly established. 
Single stemmed chrysanthemums are also fre- 
quently grown in 6-inch pots. The best time to insert 
cuttings for this type of plant is June 1. Only the 
most sturdy of cuttings should be selected for this 
purpose. As soon as rooted, they should be potted 
firmly in 3-inch pots. Shading will be needed until 
proper establishment of the roots. This usually takes 
one week. The next shift is directly into 6-inch pots 
after a good root system has been developed in the 
3-inch. For the second shift it is advisable to incor- 
porate a complete commercial fertilizer in the soil, as 
recommended above. Firm potting is absolutely es- 
sential to induce a dwarf growth. After two or three 
weeks, additional feeding should be administered in 
the form of ammonium sulphate, applied either in 
dry or liquid form (¥2 teaspoonful per pot or | oz. 
to 2 gal. water). These applications should be made 
until the buds show color. Staking is necessary to 
keep the stems from breaking while the daily syring- 
ing is done. Bamboo stakes, green in color, are 
preferable for the purpose. Disbudding should be 
taken care of and all side and bottom growth re- 
moved. The crown bud is usually selected, although 
at times it may be necessary to wait until the ter- 
minals develop. This depends upon the variety and 
the earliness of the season. 
Fig. 8. Bugs. Sat NS 
ao a ns 4 SQ, 
eee DQ 
ESS Ka ¥ Ne 
QY X) fs 
Re CAE 
Nowa’) 20 7, » 
Nyy “SE a s 
cS ey oN. 
TAC 

< 
\S 
ESS - 
MUN diieh 
£ Ss ss SS 




