CARE AND CULTURE 
SOIL AND FERTILIZER 
Glads do well on most any soil if they are planted in the open garden where there is 
plenty of sunshine. You may work well rotted manure into the soil in the Spring by putting it 
into the bottom of your planting trench, then covering with an inch of soil; then planting 
your bulbs. Vigoro is also good. Two or three applications of commercial fertilizer may be 
made on the surface along the rows during the growing season before the plants bloom. 
Any fertilizer should be kept from direct contact with the bulb or foliage. If you wish to 
grow immense spikes, you must fertilize heavily; your plants must also have at least an inch 
of water every three or four days. 
PLANTING 
Work soil to a depth of eight inches, or ten inches will be better. Large bulbs should 
be covered with not less than six inches of soil. The deeper planting helps keep them 
upright when blooming. Smaller bulbs should be planted not less than two inches. You 
may regulate your distance apart in the row by the space you have. Plant rows anywhere 
from 2 ft. to 3 ft. apart. Plant in rows from two to six inches apart, depending on space 
and number of bulbs. They do well planted close together, but require more water. 
DIGGING AND STORAGE 
Our early stock is taken up in early October. The bulbs should be taken up within six weeks 
to two months after blooming but before the tops begin to get brown. Even if the tops are 
green, bulbs should be taken up before the ground freezes deeply. After digging, cut off the 
tops close to bulb and put in screen bottomed tray to cure. They should have plenty of 
ventilation while curing and must not be put in containers more than three or four inches deep. 
At this time Napthalene flakes (procured from your druggist) may be safely scattered on the 
bulbs which are dormant. Use at the rate of an ordinary handful per 100 bulbs. A little more 
or less won’t do any harm and it will drive away any thrip that may be harboring an idea of 
wintering on your bulbs. By the time you are ready to clean the bulbs most of the flakes will 
have evaporated. A note of warning! DO NOT use them in the Spring when root nodules 
appear at the base of the bulb, as they are harmful and prevent normal growth of the plant. Use 
them right after digging or early winter. Stir them every few days and keep dry. In four weeks 
they will be cured so that old bulbs may be removed from the bottoms. They may then be 
placed in storage. 
The storage temperature is best at 40 to 50 degrees. Your storage room should be dry, 
cool and ventilated and as near uniform as possible as to temperature. It is well to look at 
your bulbs every two or three weeks. If they are showing signs of too much moisture or looking 
mouldy, dry them out and give better ventilation. Keep them in small containers and spread 
thin. 
