Fertilizers 
ertilize 
There are-probably no-more important and no more 
frequently neglected gardening functions than proper 
fertilizing and soil conditioning. A definite distinction 
exists between fertilizing and soil conditioning. A fer- 
tilizer must perform either exclusively or as its principal 
function the feeding of plants by supplying chemical 
nutrients to the soil from which the plant feeds. The func- 
tion of the soil conditioner is to produce suitable soil 
texture. For example, (the use in) recommended quanti- 
ties of WILSON'S 6-8-6, 5-10-5, or similar formulas, feed 
the plants by supplying nitrogen, phosphoric acid and 
potash in the order of and in the percentages shown by 
the three figures of the fertilizer formula. On the other 
hand, the use of peat moss, humus, etc., binds loose, 
sandy soils and breaks down soil particles in heavy, 
clay soils but is of little importance in supplying the soil 
with plant nutrients. There are, however, organic fer- 
iilizers such as Bovung, Sheep Manure, Poultry Manure 
and Driconure which serve the two-fold function of as- 
sisting in proper soil conditioning as well as offering 
all three of the principal fertilizing elements. However, 
most organic fertilizers are slower in releasing their fer- 
tilizing elements than the more soluble chemical plant 
foods. 
LIME — VALUABLE CONDITIONER 
There is no broad, all-encompassing answer to your 
particular fertilizing problem since both soil texture and 
soil richness varies with location, past fertilizing prac- 
tices, etc. If your soil is heavy, clayey and inclined to 
form hard crusts, the use of sand, lime, limestone, gravel, 
humus or peat moss will modify and ultimately correct 
the condition. The same ingredients with the exception 
of sand and gravel will help bind loose, sandy soils. 
Lime and Limestone are of particular value because 
lime is not only a soil conditioner, but makes plant 
foods available more rapidly and acts as a corrective 
for excessive soil acidity. Lime, however, should not be 
applied indiscriminately either to lawns or gardens. The 
existence of soil acidity may be determined by a chem- 
ical test and lime applied to acid areas in quantities 
indicated by the test. You can make such tests yourself, 
economically and easily, by using the Sudbury Soil Test 
Kit (see page 2). Similar soil tests should be made to 
determine your fertilizer needs. Frequently, such tests 
more than pay for themselves by saving money in fer- 
tilizer purchases, and, in the case of vegetables, by 
materially increasing the garden yield. 
For general use a complete chemical fertilizer or an 
organic fertilizer, such as Bovung, is recommended. 
Either of these or similar fertilizers may be incorporated 
with the soil when the lawn or garden site is dug, may 
be used as “side dressings’’ alongside growing vege- 
table rows or as a “top dressing’ on lawn and flower 
beds. Most of these fertilizers may also be diluted in 
water to increase the rapidity of the fertilizing action. 
Chemical and Bacterial Aids 
To plant growth 
FRUITONE 
Hormone spray for preventing preharvest drop of 
apples. Holds apples on the tree longer. Fruitone 
sprays on flowers produce better set of seed and 
fruit, such as tomatoes, and beans. 2/5 o4 pkKg., 
25 ets.; 2 oz. can, $1.00 (makes 25 gals. of spray). 
ROOTONE 
A hormone powder easy to use, anyone can apply 
safely, no skill is needed to apply Rootone—just 
dip and plant. Price 4 oz pke., 25 ets.; 2 oz. 
enough to treat 3,000 cuttings, $1.00. 
TRANSPLANTONE 
The most. effective form of vitamin B,, contains 
plant hormone, vitamins B and C and other growth 
substances. One level teaspoon makes 10 gallons of 
solution. Water your plants with Transplantone to 
get better roots, more vigorous growth and quality 
flowers. %& oz. pkt., 25 ets.; 3 oz. can, $1.00. 

and Soil 
jar, | 
Conditioners 
CONCENTRATED PLANT FOODS 
Plant foods, such as Hyponex, are highly concen- 
trated and are always diluted in water before applica- 
tion. Such fertilizers are of particular benefit in stimu- 
lating growing plants and in transplanting seedlings. 
When used in transplanting, such diluted fertilizers are 
known as ‘starter solutions’’ because, by minimizing the 
effects of transplanting shock to the plant, they get the 
seedling off to a good start in its new location. 
In addition to the many excellent commercially pre- 
pared fertilizers and soil conditioners offered in our 
catalog, you can make your own fertilizer. By using 
Adco on your accumulation of garden refuse you can 
produce in your own plot enough fertilizer for the fol- 
lowing season's needs. Adco, by supplying the three 
important fertilizing elements, plus Vitamin Bi, forms a 
fertilizer of organic origin which acts efficiently as a 
soil conditioner as well as a complete fertilizer. The use 
of sulphate of ammonia and superphosphate applied at 
the rate of one-half ounce to the square yard and aug- 
mented by hardwood ashes and limestone will also fer- 
tilize and break down a compost heap of garden refuse 
but is less convenient to use than Adco. 
Following is a grouping of fertilizers and soil con- 
ditioners under headings indicating their principal 
functions: Complete Fertilizers 
Soil Conditioners (Chemical) 
Humus Sand Wilson's 6-8-6 
Peat Moss Limestone Wilson's 5-10-5 (Vic. Gr.) 
Lime Gravel Agrico Vigoro 
Organic Fertilizer 
Acting also as Soil Conditioner 
Bovung (Cow Manure) Bone Meal 
Sheep Manure Poultry Manure Driconure 
One-Element Fertilizers (Fertilizers predominantly rich in 
only one of the three fertilizer elements) 
Muriate of Potash Nitrate of Soda 
Hardwood Ashes Superphosphate 
Sulphate of Ammonia Cotton Seed Meal 
Acid Correcting Concentrated Fertilizers 
Limestone Hyponex Plantabs 
One-element fertilizers are used to supply crop re- 
quirements, to incorporate with other fertilizers or to 
supply soils deficient only in one element. *Muriate of 
Potash and Hardwood Ashes, which are rich in potash, 
are used for root vegetable crops such as carrots, beets, 
parsnip, etc. Cotton Seed Meal, rich in ammonia and 
potash, is ecellent for many grasses. Nitrate of Soda, 
a powerful nitrogen fertilizer, is frequently used as a 
side dressing on lettuce, cabbage, beans, etc., to keep 
the plants growing steadily. Aluminum and Ammonium 
Sulphate supply nitrogen and make soil acid and are 
excellent for use with Rhododendrons and other broad- 
leaved acid loving plants. Superphosphate, while some- 
times. used independently, is more frequently incorpor- 
ated with other fertilizers to increase. phosphoric acid 
content. 
HYPONEX — Liquid Plant Food 
A dry, odorless powder. One tea- 
spoonful makes a gallon of plant 
food. Highly concentrated.°> Easy to 
handle, will not burn foliage., Con- 
tains vitamin B,. 3 oz ean (makes 
18 gals.) 25 ets.; 1 Ib. ean (makes 
100 gals.) $1.00. 
“GREEN THUMB” CABBAGE 
MAGGOT PROTECTORS — 
Treated felt pads which protect cab- 
bage, cauliflower, broccoli, etc. from 
the cabbage root maggot. 24 to package, 25 cts. 
“GREEN THUMB” CUTWORM PROTECTORS 
Three inch collars which are placed around toma- 
toes, pepper, etc. toe suard “asainst, cutworms. 
50 to package, 25 cts. 
Lime 



WILSON’S SEEDS 
MONTCLAIR, N. J. 

