Beceieieeehe MUMS (°F OR. 19.4.6 rom — Gab Gere 
SOME CULTURAL FUNDAMENTALS 
SEOm a DALL 
If a writer knows from experience what he’s talking or writing about, some points of 
practical use can be gotten across with the printed page; but conditions vary greatly, 
making suggestions somewhat uncertain. For this reason the following Mum remarks 
will stay pretty close to fundamentals that with the exercise of common sense are applic- 
able most everywhere. 
SOILS 
Some of the most successful growth we have had was thru gravel or soilless culture. 
On the other hand, we have noted top grade show flowers that were grown in the rather 
stiff yellow material that prevails in New Jersey. This clearly proves what can be done 
with any type of soil with proper moisture, fertility, and general management. With 
heavy soil plenty of strawy manure or other organic material is necessary not only for 
fertility effect, but for aeration as well, and this is of greater importance than is generally 
appreciated ; for while it may not analyze high in fertility, thru its mechanical and aeration 
effect it seems to act on or unlock the fertility already in the soil. Organic material when 
combined with plenty of water seems to be nature’s manure. When grown in gravel the 
pumping up and draining back of liquid nutrient sets up perfect aeration and is, we 
believe, largely responsible for the perfect Mum results we have had with it. The oc- 
casional difficulties with soilless culture are frequently due, we believe, to improper 
strength of the nutrient, usually excessively high concentrations. 
Most of our growing has been in old greenhouse soil that has been used for years, 
and usually we make out very well with it. The tendency with such old material is to 
overdo the use of stable manure. To apply it annually will tend to over supply nitrogen 
that, if it gets too strong, burns the roots. It also accumulates disease that in the open 
is held down by the natural elements—frost and drenching rains. Probably the most 
costly disease that accumulates in soil is known as Verticillium, and this can best be 
destroyed in the soil thru steaming it; in fact, we believe it profitable to use this treat- 
ment for every crop of Mums unless it was used for the preceding crop. When steamed 
annually we find old greenhouse soil usually produces better results than will fresh soil. 
This is explained by its accumulated fertility that is wasted when changed annually 
because of the time required for it to break down and become available. If steaming is 
not done before planting Mums, at least thoroly saturate it with clear water. This tends 
to leach away any accumulated salts or other toxic material. 
Testing soil for fertility and pH is another precaution that should be used for any 
greenhouse crop, especially before applying fertilizers. If this was more generally prac- 
ticed we would meet with fewer of those unexplainable failures or mediocre results that 
sometimes puzzle us. The tendency with many growers is to over-fertilize. If a soil test 
points to an excess of any element it should be lowered thru leaching. Thoroly saturating 
the soil, as is done in the open, is another natural method of balancing soil irregularities. 
The pH for Mums should be around neutral. If much on the acid side, use lime at the 
tate of about 5 Ibs. to each 100 sq. ft. of bench surface. If on the alkaline side, 1 Ib. of 
agricultural sulphur to every 100 sq. ft. should restore it to around neutral. 
RAISED OR GROUND BEDS 
Ground or deep beds are of course more economical than are raised beds or “tables” 
as our veteran friends refer to them. But—if the sub soil is not naturally well drained 
thru being gravelly, chances are they will not dry out promptly as they should. This 
might be particularly so if the greenhouse site is flat or if at all low, in which case the 
water level during excessive rains might get dangerously close to the surface. It is pretty 
safe to suggest that if the sub-soil is a clayey one and the greenhouse site is located on 
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