or not seeds are desired. We consider July and August the best 
months for dividing in this particular climate, although September 
and early October have advantages. The earlier time, however, pro- 
vides a longer undisturbed growing period. Keep divisions well 
watered. Auriculas grow more slowly and can remain undisturbed 
for longer periods. Off-sets complete with roots can often be pulled 
off while the old plant remains in the ground, but it is better to lift 
the entire clump and give all divisions deeply worked, sharply 
drained, enriched soil. Juliaes may or may not be divided according 
to the type of hybrid and the purpose for which they are intended. 
Asiatics, particularly Candelabras, should be divided every other 
year at least, and where growth is lush, every year. The best time to 
divide is immediately after blooming or, if seed is desired, immedately 
after harvest. Otherwise wait several months and divide in early fall 
to avoid that period when many Asiatics lose their old root systems 
and the plant is sustained only by very short new roots beginning 
at the base of the crown barely below soil surface. This short-rooted 
period is one of the reasons Asiatics need heavy watering in mid- 
summer. If weather is very hot and humid, full shade at this time 
aids materially, and should mushiness appear in the center of the 
plant, a dusting of sulphur will check the rot unless too far ad- 
vanced. An occasional dusting with sulphur during this period is an 
excellent rot preventative. 
Perennialism—It is natural for the older leaves of English Prim- 
roses to begin deterioration in summer by spotting and turning 
yellow. New leaf growth quickens after seeding and as it develops 
into healthy, green maturity, old leaves gradually die off as the 
perennial cycle is completed. Juliae hybrids reach this stage later in 
the summer and early fall; Auriculas usually wait until fall and 
winter for the old leaves to yellow, the new leaves making a tight roll. 
Sieboldiis, unlike most garden Primulas, have a dormant period in 
the summer. Most of the other Asiatics usually lose their leaves in 
late fall and early winter leaving only the resting buds which usually 
sit on the soil surface in full view but which in some species seem to 
withdraw into the ground. Some of the Asiatics put forth leaf 
growth very late in the spring—so late they are often given up for 
lost. In a scattered or small planting it is well to stake such 
Primulas to protect them from injury when spring work begins. 
Some of the Asiatics are evergreen and are listed as such for they 
seem to need better winter drainage than the herbaceous types. 
Pests—Strawberry Root Weevil and Black Vine Weevil are con- 
trolled in the adult beetle stage by broadcasting weevil and slug bait, 
spraying the plants with arsenate of lead, or putting a teaspoonful 
of tobacco dust in the bottom of each hole before planting. If bait 
is used the first application around plant crowns (allow some to fall 
on the leaves) should be made about mid-May continuing periodically 
throughout the summer. A monthly spraying with lead arsenate 
beginning the middle of May will kill other leaf chewing insects 
as well. 
The larvae of the beetle (weevils) feed most heavily on the roots 
in the fall and winter. Rapidly diminishing leaves, loss of vitality, 
general sickly appearance usually indicate their presence and damage 
is most noticeable from late winter to mid-spring. To kill larvae in 
the ground, dust arsenate of lead around the plants as close to the 
crowns as possible and over the entire Primrose bed at the approxi- 
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