How to Contriel PLANT PESTS aud DISEASES 
COMMON PESTS OF 
GARDEN and ORCARD 
Aphis attack the new growth of most plants. Curled 
foliage at the tips of new growth indicate ihe presence 
of aphis. They can be controlled by spraying with an 
oil emulsion to which nicotine or pyrethrum-rotenone 
has been added. Keep ants out of the plant by band- 
ing with a "'tanglefoot’’ near the base of the tree or 
shrub or poisoning with a liquid bait. Follow up at 
two-week intervals. 
Scale and Mealy-bugs attack many parts of the plant. 
The adults of scale resemble miniature stationary sow 
bugs and mealy-bugs are covered with a snow-white 
meal. Usually ants are present. Control by spraying 
at intervals of two weeks with an oil emulsion and 
dispose of ants as recommended above. Follow-up is 
essential to control young “hatching” through a long 
season. Spray from June through September. 
Red Spiders, Mites and Thrips. Foliage turns mottled 
gray or yellow. Spray with an oil emulsion to which 
nicotine or pyrethrum has been added. Method and 
thoroughness of spray is most essential as undersides 
of leaves must receive a good soaking. Follow-up 
essential. 
Leaf-hoppers and White Flies are self-evident when 
the foliage is brushed and insects swarm up or hop 
to nearby leaves. They are the enemies of quick, lush 
growth. Two methods of control may be used. Spray 
with oil emulsion to which has been added nicotine 
or pyrethrum-rotenone or dust with materials contain- 
ing nicotine, ‘sulfur or pyrethrum-rotenone. 
Foraging Pests such as cut-worms, snail and slugs, 
which damage the stems and foliage of plants, may be 
controlied by several methods. Poison with prepared 
baits applied near the affected plants. Dust with a 
material containing pyrethrum-rotenone, lead arsenate 
or nicotine. Spray with lead arsenate mixed with a 
light solution of oil emulsion to act as a spreader. 
Fruits or edible parts of plants sprayed or dusted with 
lead arsenate should be thoroughly washed before 
eating. 
Beetles attacking foliage of many plants may be con- 
trolled by any of the methods recommended above 
for foraging pests. 
Borers atiacking the twigs and roots of trees may be 
controlled by applying a soil fumigant (PDB) at the 
base of the trunk in late summer and fall. 
Lawn Moths appear in spring and early summer. The 
larvae from the eggs adults lay in the sod feed on 
roots of lawn grasses and:cause damage that does not 
become noticeable until serious. Dust lawn with lead 
arsenate when air is quiet, using 5 lbs, per 1000 sq. ft. 
Soak lawn immediately with sprinkler to wash lead 
arsenate into turf. 
Rodents. 
‘stroyer). For gophers, drop a few grain in runways. 
For mice, rats and squirrels, place the grain where the 
rodents find their food or on the way to their runs. 
Do not place near their holes and keep out of the way 
of children, plants and poultry. 
Use traps or poisoned grain (Rodent De- 
Fungus Diseases such as Mildew, Black Spot, Rust, 
may be controlled during the growing season by a 
solution containing copper (Bordelo) or by a solution 
prepared from Bordo powder and at foliage strength. 
Brown Rot, Shot Hole and Curly Leaf of peaches may 
be controlled during the dormant season by spraying 
with these materials at dormant strength. Mildews 
may be controlled by dusting with materials contain- 
ing sulfur or copper dust. 

SIX GOOD RULES 
FOR PEST CONTROL 
1. Identify the insect or disease attacking the plant. 
Your county agricultural commissioner or farm 
adviser can help you. If more convenient, write 
to us giving details and enclosing affected portion 
of plant. 
2. Select the remedy from the information given on 
pages 30 and 31 of this book. 
3. Use the manufacturer's instructions shown on the 
container. 
4. Follow up! One treatment will not suffice in most 
cases. 
9. Don't let the bug or disease “get ahead” of you. 
Take immediate action and follow up until extermi- 
nated. 
6. Spray or dust thoroughly. Be sure that all portions 
of the plant subject to injury are contacted. 
KEEP THESE ON HAND 
A simple spray kit may be assembled by purchasing 
a bottle of oil emulsion (Volck), a bottle of contact 
(Blackleaf ‘'40” a bottle of 
fungicide (Bordelo or Greenol), a package of good all- 
purpose dust, a package of lead arsenate and an ant- 
control kit 
insecticide or Extrax), 
(Fresnol). A 242-3 gallon tank sprayer 
completes the equipment. Other materials may be 
purchased as the specific need requires. 
HOW TO GROW 
GOOD APPLES 
Apple trees will make good growth and excellent 
trees in soils that do not favor the production of other 
fruit varieties. For example, almonds, peaches, cher- 
ries and nectarines are not tolerant of heavy, moisture- 
retaining soils typical of many California sections. 
The roots of apple trees will support large trees 
and good crops in these soils. 
Apple seedlings were planted by the pioneers of Gold 
Rush days and the venerable trees still growing and 
producing in now-forgotten mining areas attest to their 
ability to thrive under adverse conditions. 
For home orchard purposes the trees require little 
attention other than occasional irrigation and spraying 
following their second year in your garden. Special 
attention should be given to spraying for codling-moth 
for the production of worm-free fruits. We recommend 
the following: 
Obtain a package of Lead Arsenate (see spray ma- 
terials listed on the opposite page) and a bottle of 
Nursery Volck. Use the proportions recommended by 
the manufacturer. It is wise to make the solution out- 
side of your sprayer and strain through a cloth to 
prevent clogging. 
When about half of the petals have dropped from the 
spring apple blossoms, apply the first spray, thor- 
oughly wetting the tiny new fruits. A second spray 
should follow within 5-10 days. About the middle of 
June spray with the oil alone, omitting the lead arse- 
nate. The addition of nicotine or pyrethrum-rotenone 
to the solution will assist in the control of aphis and 
other insects operating in this season. A second oil 
and nicotine spray is desirable in the interior valleys 
in early July. 
Cleanliness is essential to codling-moth control in 
your orchard and in the neighbors’. Pick up unde- 
sirable fruits from beneath trees regularly and do not 
allow refuse to lie beneath the trees at any time. 
The above control measures may be applied to Pears. 
31 

HOW TO GROW 
GRAPEVINES 
Planting. Grapevines should be planted during Janu- 
ary, February and March. Before planting, trim off 
all roots except the main roots at the base of cutting 
and shorten these to two or three inches. Prune the 
top to two buds on a single spur and place the plants 
in a bucket of water until ready to plant. Dig spacious 
holes and set the single spur about two inches above 
the ground level while filling in with top soil about 
the roots. Firm the soil with a slow stream of water. 
Pruning. Quick results are obtained by throwing all 
of the top growth into a single cane during the first 
growing season. Train it straight up to form the cen- 
tral trunk for your vine. In the next winter, prune the 
laterals back to two buds on all varieties except 
Thompson Seedless. Begin training the laterals of this 
variety during the first growing season. Reason: 
Thompson Seedless fruit arises from two-year wood; 
in other varieties fruit is borne on current season's 
growth. 
Train laterals arising from the main trunk during 
the second summer horizontally. Trim secondary lat- 
erals arising from these horizontal canes back to two 
buds in the second winter. Upon establishing a com- 
plete framework, continue to trim all canes back to 
two buds each winter. Exception: Thompson Seedless 
require a continuous reserve of canes for following- 
year production. 
Cultural. Do not irrigate grapevines too frequently, 
resulting in watery, tasteless fruit. Three good irri- 
gations during the summer will suffice under average 
conditions. A mulch of well-rotted cow manure ap- 
plied two months after planting will force strong 
growth useful in building a good framework quickly. 
Watch your vines closely in fall for mildew, and dust 
with a. good grade of dusting sulphur as soon as the 
first sign of mildew is apparent. Follow up with other 
applications when conditions warrant. 
HOW TO GROW 
GOOD CITRUS TREES 
Planting. All citrus varieties are evergreen and come 
with a ball of soil around the roots. Dig a deep, 
spacious hole at least twice the size of the ball. Set 
the tree in the hole so that the bud union is about 
two inches above ground level. Fill in with good top- 
soil about half way. Cut the top string supporting the 
burlap and fold back. Fill in with more topsoil and 
irrigate to compact soil around roots. 
Warning. Do not use any fertilizer or manure when 
planting. If ball is dried and hard whén received, 
plunge into a bucket of water for a minute before 
setting the ball into the hole. 
Fertilizer. Use a well-balanced commercial fertilizer 
a month after planting and each spring thereafter. 
Mulch with well-rotted manure in the irrigation basin 
summer, fall and winter. 
Water. Citrus trees require regular irrigation in the 
dry season. Irrigate in a large basin at least once each 
month in heavy soils and every two weeks in light, 
sandy soils. Warning: If your citrus tree is a lawn 
specimen, keep the sod from growing near the base 
of the trunk. Your sprinkling system will not provide 
enough water for your tree; irrigate regularly as rec- 
ommended above. 
Pest Control. Spray for aphis on the new foliage in 
spring and for scale at monthly intervals from spring 
to winter. A combination spray for aphis and scale 
is recommended. Keep ants out of your trees. 
