soil as directed above, with leaf mold or peat moss, with consider- 
able coarse sand or gravel; fill in the mixed soil on top of the 
rock or gravel, FIRMING SOIL to prevent later settling, and 
plant as previously directed, EXCEPT, have top of ball of earth 
TWO INCHES above the surrounding surface and slope up to it. 
WATERING—KEEP REASONABLY MOIST. Never let plant 
dry out entirely, but: IMPORTANT! NEVER KEEP SOGGY 
WET—either condition may cause buds to drop or loss of plants. 
Soak deep occasionally in the long dry season by letting a 
sprinkler run slowly several hours among them, or by building a 
little ridge around the plants a foot or two away and filling the 
basin so formed two or three times. (Don’t “dig out” a basin.) 
IN THE WET SEASON BREAK OUT THE RIDGE SO 
FORMED to allow rainwater to drain away. Also in the rainy 
season rake away the summer mulch to allow evaporation of 
excessive water. Frequent sprinkling of the foliage in the evening 
or morning in hot, dry weather is highly beneficial. 
FOR FERTILIZER, use Bandini’s or other standard acid fer- 
tilizer, or cottonseed meal. A handful of leaf mold or peat moss 
mixed with the fertilizer each time will help rot the fertilizer by 
keeping it moist and will accumulate a mulch by the time it is 
needed in the hot months. For a 3 foot plant in the open ground, 
about one-half pint (a teacup full), March Ist, scattered around 
the plant, scratched in slightly (one-quarter inch) and WATERED 
IN THOROUGHLY. Repeat, using a little less, Ist of April, May, 
and June—perhaps again in late fall—larger and smaller plants 
in proportion and ONE-HALF AS.MUCH IF IN CONTAINERS. 
A light mulch of thoroughly rotted stable manure may be applied 
instead of the March Ist feeding. DO NOT BURN WITH TOO 
MUCH FERTILIZER AT ONE TIME. NO CULTIVATION— 
they root to the surface. If soil is alkaline, neutralize it before 
planting by digging into soil of whole area about one-eighth pound 
of agricultural sulphur per square yard. If the plants are set, 
scatter over surface and scratch in near the plants—dig in farther 
away from the roots—and WATER. A mulch of oak leaf mold 
is also acid. Symptoms of alkalinity—leaves turning yellow, with 
brown spots near edges, and falling off. 
WHERE TO PLANT—Although many fine specimens are 
growing in full sun, a partially shaded location is suggested—hot 
sun broken by trees—an East front—or North front if well drained 
soil. If in full sun, a lath or muslin shelter the first summer 
and a cheese cloth the second summer, removed in the winters 
will generally toughen the foliage and prevent future serious 
burning. 
PRUNING—Tie up to stakes or cut back loose straggly growers 
to make them more compact and symmetrical, cutting just above 
a growth bud using a sharp knife or shears. Compact, symme- 
trical growing varieties need little if any pruning. The central or 
main upright stem of Chandleri and Francine should not be cut 
until it has reached the desired height as their growth will be 
largely lateral thereafter. 
DISBUDDING—Prolific bloomers should be disbudded to not 
over two bloom buds on each twig tip. On your plant leave some 
of the largest, they will bloom earliest—some of the smallest, 
they will bloom latest—and some medium sizes to distribute the 
flowers over a long period. Leaf or growth buds are long, slender 
and sharp pointed while bloom buds are thicker through (fatter) 
and are generally distinguishable by mid-summer. 
VARIETIES—are listed under the four headings: (1) White; 
(2) Pink; (3) Red; (4) Variegated—and to aid you in selecting 
varieties to bloom over a long period, UNDER EACH COLOR, 
VARIETIES ARE NAMED IN ORDER OF TIME OF BLOOM- 
_ING FROM EARLIEST TO LATEST. 
