
Galieel JE ointers 
FERTILIZER 
Soil structure is the key to soil fertility. The response of chrysanthemums to fertilization depends upon 
a favorable soil structure. It is known that plants require nutrients, water and air for growth. Good 
soil structure will provide proper air and water relationships. Therefore, it behooves us to give proper 
attention to the soil before starting the crop. 
When using new soil, apply 3 to 5 lbs. of super phosphate per 100 square feet of area plus a 
liberal application of manure before planting. Phosphorus moves slowly within the soil mixture. It 
should always be added before the crop is benched so that it may be mixed thoroughly into the 
soil. A mulch of peat, rotted manure, alfalfa or red clover hay applied two to three weeks after 
planting is helpful. Six weeks after planting and every three weeks until color shows an application of 
ammonium sulfate at the rate of | lb. per 100 square feet of area or 2 lbs. of a complete fertilizer, 
such as Electra, is advisable. Never apply fertilizers to a dry soil. Water lightly first, then apply the 
proper quantity of fertilizer then water heavily. Remember that the plant is the best guide as to 
fertilizer requirements. 
In the cooler weather and shorter days of September, omit the ammonium sulfate if the plants are 
growing freely and are of good color. The chrysanthemum plant assimilates more phosphorus and 
potassium during the fall when temperatures decline. Therefore, it is more desirable to apply a com- 
plete fertilizer shortly after the buds are visible. 
When using sterilized soil the best recommendations to follow would be to analyze your soil from 
time to time. We have found that when the following nutrient levels are kept, good crops are the 
result. Nitrate nitrogen should be between !0 to 25 parts per million; phosphorus from 2 to 5 parts 
per million and potassium 20 to 40 parts per million. 
The foregoing pertains to plants that appear and behave normally. If plants are stunted, look yellow 
and sick, they are probably suffering from an extremely rich soil. Many greenhouse soils are ex- 
cessively rich and chrysanthemums will not thrive in such a medium. If this is the case, the remedy is 
leaching with water. Lots and lots of it. More water than you ever applied to a bench at once 
before, two or three gallons per square foot. The water that runs through the soil carries with it the 
excessive plant food and allows your plants to recover from their indigestion. Did you ever notice 
fine healthy growth on a small part of a sick-looking bed of mums, and observe that it was under a 
broken pane of glass that allowed the rain water to come through and leach the soil below? Such a 
sight is a sure indication that the soil needed leaching. In most cases this condition is the result of 
the foolish and indiscriminate use of fertilizers. Use them when needed, but use them judiciously. 
Remember fertilizers are plant food in an extremely concentrated form. 

Septoria fect Spot Foliar Nematode Injury 
rr EERE 
