Amaryllis can be successfully potted now. We prefer to pot them by Dec. but with 
or without Rootone one can have excellent success by potting in Feb. or Mar. and we 
still fill many orders in Apr. But it is much better to start them earlier. Do so, if 
possible but better late than not at all. 
For potting at this season we recommend the bulbs already mentioned and those 
following: Agapanthus, especially the dwarf “mooreanus minor.” For emphasis, I will 
mention my tavorite of all potting bulbs again, Amaryllis; Amar-Crinum Howard; 
Clivia; Crinum Cecil Houdyshel (if you have room for a very large plant); Elisena; 
Haemanthus Katherinae and H. multiflorus; Hymenocallis, Tropical Spider Lily; 
Sprekelia formosissima superba, the Orchid Amaryllis; Tulbaghia; Oxalis; Cymbidium 
Orchids; Yellow, Pink and Spotted Leaf Callas; Fancy Leaf Caladiums; Tub. Begonias; 
Gloxinias; Billbergias. Most plants if not too large can be grown in pots. Gladiolus are 
good forcers but too tall for the house. I have not mentioned Lilies as it is rather too 
late to pot for forcing. They might flower, but late and it is better to plant as soon as 
possible in the garden. 
POTTING DIRECTIONS 
The pot for a 244” Amaryllis bulb should be about 7” diam. This is about right 
for most bulbs of that size. Give larger or smaller bulbs, pots proportionate in size. 
Small bulbs may be planted 2” or 3” apart in pots up to 6” diam. 
It is most important that drainage be perfect and the soil of a friable texture that 
allows water to drain perfectly. Cover the hole in the bottom of the pot with reversed 
bits of broken pots and on top of that small pebbles, then coarse sand will help. 
Imperfectly drained soil often causes bulbs to rot before starting and if they start they 
do not grow and flower well. Yellow tipped leaves often indicate poor drainage. The 
pots should be clean and scalded. 
The proper soil is a rich sandy loam with the addition of thoroly rotted leaf mold. 
Add peat or oak-leaf mould for acid loving plants. Use no fresh manure or other fertilizer 
at planting. Be very discreet even in using old rotted manure. Rotted dairy manure is 
rather safe. A heaping tablespoonful of bone meal is good. Thoroly mix all ingredients. 
Most small bulbs should be planted just under soil surface. 
An Amaryllis and most large bulbs may have % of bulb above surface. When 
placed, the soil may be settled by a thoro watering, once. After that no more water is 
usually needed until after growth begins, altho the soil should not become quite dry 
at base of bulb. A wet condition very long often rots dormant bulbs before they start. 
The soil surface may appear dry and yet be too wet for starting bulbs at center of pot. 
Most bulbs should have a cool room, about 60° while rooting and only slight 
moisture. When a bud or foliage gives evidence that growth has started, bring the pot 
to living room temperature, of about 70° and water slightly more. It is not time to 
water them freely yet. Do that only when flowering or in full growth. Do not overwater 
at any time. Sufficient time between waterings must be given to allow excess water to 
drain away, so that air penetrates and bathes the entire root system, tho still damp. 
When in full growth and bloom feed the bulbs about every 2 or 3 weeks with very 
weak liquid manure. It should be only amber tinted, the color of weak tea. Proper 
feeding will result in luxuriant growth. Too much yellows the leaves, because the 
root hairs are burned off. . 
Sun exposure. Note under the listing the requirements for sunlight. For those 
needing full sun use a south window, uncurtained. For half sun an east window may 
be just right. If it proves to give too much sun use a curtain. Plants react with certainty 
to too much sun by the burning of foliage or by spindly growth or too long foliage if 
not enough. Turn the plants around every few days for symmetry of growth. . 
It is very important to continue watering and feeding after bulbs are thru flowering. 
At that time they are rebuilding lost tissues, increasing in size, making offsets and finally 
constructing new buds for next season. At this time they will also store up food to 
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