A. longispathus. New species. Flowers resemble Orientalis but blooms more 
profusely and is more graceful. 75c ea. 3 for $2.00. 
A. orientalis (umbellatus). Blue Lily of the Nile. Our variety is an especially fine 
one with deep blue flowers on a tall stem. Many flowers are produced in spring and 
thru summer. 50c ea. Extra large roots, 75c. 
A. orientalis, “Sky Blue.” Lovely light blue. $1.00 ea. 
A. orientalis, var. albidus. Has pure white flowers. $1.50 ea. 
A. pendulus. Entirely new and distinctly different species of greatest value. Flowers 
in shades of blue and purple in a great variety. Flowers long, tubular and pendulous. 
The umbel is smaller but most graceful. Like “mooreanus minor’ it is deciduous and 
must be ordered before April' 1. In the north it can be grown in garden and dug and 
stored in dry soil over winter. $1.50 ea. 
Amarcrinum Howardii. A cross between Brunsvigia rosea (Amaryllis belladonna) 
and Crinum moorei. Flowers are a pure pink and very attractive. As it is a winter 
bloomer and profuse it is a valuable bulb for a large pot. Moved in the spring, it will 
bloom the following winter. $2.50. 
Amaryllis. Under this genus we are listing all species and hybrids formerly listed 
under Hippeastrums. Amaryllis is the old-time and popular name. They are probably 
the most popular of all bulbs for growing in pots and equally valuable for southern 
gardens. They are hardy thruout the south along the Atlantic coast to N. Carolina and 
even up into Oklahoma they can be grown outdoors in well drained soil, planted about 
4” deep and mulched with straw, leaves or brush over winter. 
How to Grow Amaryllis in Pots. When bulbs are received, pot at once. Have pots 
and soil ready to receive them. Do not remove or injure any living roots that are attached. 
Moisten these roots and dip or sprinkle with Rootone. If there are no living roots, 
moisten base of bulb after cleaning and apply Rootone. Rootone is not essential but it 
helps the development of new roots. 
A bulb under 3” diam. needs a 7” pot. Larger bulbs should have an 8” pot or larger. 
The best potting soil is a friable loam. To this add an equal volume of a mixture 
composed of equal parts of sand, well rotted cow manure and rotted leaf mould. Use no 
peat. Bone meal is recommended, | tablespoonful to each pot. Mix all thoroly. 
Pot the bulb with neck and upper bulb surface exposed. Water well but after that 
keep the soil only slightly moist until growth starts, then gradually increase. When first 
potted set the bulbs in a cool, light room. The best temperature now is 45° to 50°. 
Later the pots may be removed to a room of about 60° to 70° which will force more 
rapid growth and earlier flowers and this is all right when the bulb is well rooted. Buds 
will usually have shown. 
After flowering, the bulbs will then be shrunken and perhaps soft. A period of 
growth is necessary to fill them out and increase their size. If good growth is made at 
this important stage the bulb will be much larger than in the preceding year and offsets 
may be made. It is necessary to keep them growing as long as possible. When the 
weather is warm outside the pots may be plunged in the garden or the bulbs with entire, 
unbroken clumps of roots and earth may be removed from pot and reset. Bulbs may be 
planted in full sun, but slight shade is good where very hot summers prevail. When 
bulbs are well established give liberal mulchings of dairy manure. Use stable manure 
carefully. It is good but very strong. If it does not rain every week give a good 
irrigation. Before heavy frost, remove to house. Allow them a rest of several weeks but 
do not allow pots to dry out completely. The temperature of 45° checks growth. When 
you want them to start, bring to 60° and water a little. You can become expert in 
obtaining flowers every year. 
In the garden, plant Amaryllis just under the soil surface. 
I am frequently asked why the inquirer’s bulbs do not flower. Perhaps they have 
flowered the first year after their purchase but not thereafter. Some state their bulbs 
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