written to furnish that as well as to list the bulbs. Most inquirers show that the writer 
did not read the catalog as the very information asked for is in it. 
We publish over 70,000 catalogs per year. The volume of correspondence has 
become greater than is possible for me to take care of. If you are obliged to ask a 
question enclose a self addressed post card for reply. | 
Identifying Bulbs. We can usually identify bulbs. Send flower, foliage and if 
possible, a bulb. Give all the facts known. Enclose self addressed post card. We do not 
undertake to identify horticultural varieties of Gladiolus, Iris, etc. 
Time of Delivery. We deliver all bulbs within the correct range of time for 
planting or before. 
Not all bulbs are ready to ship out on Sept. 1. We dig Gladiolus from Aug. to 
Oct.; Callas late Oct.; Amaryllis about Nov. 15. Items in the catalog that are not ready 
to ship in Sept. are noted in the catalog and delivery date is given. 
GENERAL CULTURE DIRECTIONS 
The best bulb soil is a rich sandy loam. Only a few, like Bearded Iris, prefer 
heavy soil. But nearly all bulbs do well in heavy soil, especially if plenty of humus 
is added. 
All soils require the addition of large amounts of humus. You should compost 
all weeds, leaves and small branches. If possible, add manure to this and when well 
rotted and fine turn under and thoroly mix with the soil. 
Fertilizers. Animal manures are the best. Use them with compost as explained. 
Do not use fresh manure except as a light mulch for certain growing plants and 
experiment on a few first as too much quickly destroys a plant. Do not add fresh 
manure or ‘commercial fertilizer to soil just before planting bulbs or seeds. It would 
be as logical to give a day-old baby a tough steak, a piece of apple pie and two cups of 
coffee. Fertilize only healthy, thrifty plants. What would you think of a doctor who 
ordered a big meal for a sick man as a means of recovery? Do not fertilize when the 
ground is dry and plants need water. 
After Blooming, many persons neglect their bulbs. A Gladiolus must grow and 
fatten at least two months after flowering. Amaryllis should grow with luxuriant 
foliage until late November or longer if it does not begin to yellow. 
Let us consider the annual growth cycle of a bulb. 
A dormant bulb contains a flower bud and short new leaves. There is food stored 
in the form of starches, etc., and also enzymes for digesting this food. While dormant, 
the stored up starches are turned into soluble sugar. Roots, buds and foliage begin to 
develop in their natural order and your care is rewarded. When thru flowering, the 
bulb has become smaller and is soft instead of firm and plump. This is a critical time. 
The bulb may appear at a pause for a short time but when a good root system has 
developed it will begin active growth. Encourage that. Give them food and water. 
Enough, not too much. The longer you can keep it growing, the larger and better 
will be your resulting bulb for next year. The yellowing of foliage will signify the 
bulb has reached full development. 
Depth and Spacing often cause too much concern. Bulbs usually have sufficient 
adaptability to do well under widely varying conditions. In a general way, bulbs should 
be about two or three times their diameter apart. Small bulbs like Ranunculus No. 
3 may be covered 1”; bulbs the size of a Daffodil covered 4” to 6”. Bulbs with a heavy 
top need deeper planting to maintain an erect position. Planting in light sandy soils 
should be deeper than in heavy soils. In very cold climates, deep planting protects 
bulbs from damage from frost. Few bulbs are too finicky about their depth and many 
of them have the ability to correctly adjust themselves to the most favorable depth if 
left in one place a few years. 
Pests. The depredations of garden pests are too well known to require discussion 
except regarding remedies. In many localities, snails and slugs are so numerous that 
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