BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF Plant Lifer 
L this Short Guide it is taken for granted that most trees and shrubs require normal 
food, air and water. Thus a plant needing more air than usual at its roots is marked 
“loose soil” or “drain”. Plants very easy to grow are referred to as “tolerant’’, or may 
have no notes whatsoever. 
o---------, F--- 
CLIMATE MAP 
The numbers | to VII in the map refer to Zone numbers printed 
after each plant name throughout this Guide. It shows the north- 
ern limit beyond which any given plant cannot grow. This is not 
a perfect rule. Two modifications might be mentioned. East of 
Indianapolis, a damper climate makes all evergreens hardier. 
West of Indianapolis hot western summers make deciduous trees 
hardier than rated in this Guide. 
Soil Tests 
Sudbury Kit tests for nitrogen, phosphorus, potash and acidity. 
No technical skill required. Results apparent immediately. 
Sample Kit—Postpaid $2.00 (Complete with instructions). 
Larger K?t—$4.75 postpaid. Enough to make 10 complete tests 
as above. 

— LEAVES — 
AIR—"wind", "city air" 
Carbon is absorbed from air. Ordinarily the gardener has no 
worries about the leaves getting air. Some plants (like Hem- 
lock) burn in strong winds. Bad city air is harmful to some 
trees (like Sugar Maple). 
LIGHT—"sun", “shade” 
Light makes the chlorophyl! factory turn its wheels. All plants 
need some. Those that get along best on little light are marked 
“shade” in this Guide. Those that need a great deal are marked 
“sun’”.—Normal plants are not marked—they live in sun or 
part shade. 
— ROOTS — 
AIR—"loose", "heavy", "drain" 
Roots get oxygen from air that filters into the earth. Some 
plants need more than others; these must have loose soil and 
will suffocate in heavy damp clays. Such plants are marked 
“drain” in this Guide. 
WATER—"damp", "dry" 
Roots can only use chemicals that are dissolved in water. Some 
plants need more than others and die in sevére droughts. ° In 
the descriptions such are marked “‘damp’’. A loose soil quickly 
dries, a heavy soil keeps damp. Thus water and air for the 
roots are both present in a mixed soil. Normal plants’ that 
thrive in this ‘‘ordinary garden soil’ need no notation. 
FOOD—"humus", "rich", "barren" 
Potassium—most soils have plenty. 
Phosphorus—needs to be added in most soils. 
c. Nitrogen—Fertilizer supplies it, but water quickly leaches 
it out, so permanent plants depend on bacteria in the soil. 
These bacteria depend on: 1. Acidity of soil, 2. Drainage 
of soil, 3. Humus in the soil. 
Iron, lime, etc., usually present anywhere. 
er te 
Ways to Improve Your Soil 
SOIL FACTS 
BARREN—Clay has no air, sand no food. Even a mixture of 
clay and sand alone does not make soil fit for most plants. 
LoAMS—As soon as humus is added, the soil becomes a “nor- 
mal” soil. Air, food and water all complete. In addition, soil 
bacteria start living on the humus and release nitrogen thus 
making “‘top-soil’’. 
HUMUS:—In some form, is useful to all plants. 
1. Lightens heavy soil. 
2. Adds water storage to light soils. 
3, Is nature’s own food. 
WARNINGS—Renew every two years. 
PEAT AND PEAT Moss:—The best all around humus. 
LEAFMOLD, WOODS CLEARINGS, DEAD LEAVES, ETC.: Also 
good, though apt to be unsightly, unless finely shredded. 
MANvuRE:—Best fertilizer—humus. (See Mulchnur below.) 



rotted, can be applied as a di- 
rect mulch. Moisture 25 to 
40% (feels dry). Sold in 100 
lb. bags—$1.50 each. (Covers 
300 sq. feet.) Excellent soil 
conditioner. 










USE NATURAL FERTILIZERS FOR PERMANENCY 
SHREDDED Cow MANURE—Well MuLCHNuR—For spreading on lawns, gardens, etc. 
contains peatmoss, manure, and enough tobacco dust to ) 
discourage cutworms, moles, etc. 
high:—Nit. 2.8%, Phos. 1.5%, Pot. 1%. Comes clean, 
dry, shredded, ready to use. 
Lawns: Use 1 pound to 10 square feet. 
Beds, etc.: 1 pound to 214 square feet. 
1 bag (50 Ibs.) covers 500 ft. lawn. $2.00. 
LIME:— 
1. “Sweetens” the soil—that is, reduces acidity. 
2. Promotes decay, so provides quick food from humus in 
soil. 
3. Flocculates clay soiis:—Thus making clay into loam. 
ACID:—To acidify soils, aluminum sulphate is quickest, but 
there is danger of damage in heavy soil. Straight sulphur (in 
commercial form as powder) does the same job in about 2 
weeks and is harmless and easily obtained. An ounce to a 
square yard, sprinkled on the surface. 
FERTILIZER:—AIll plants in gardens benefit by having plenty 
of food. 
1. Strong growth—hence hardier. 
2. More flowers. Better color. 
3. Healthy plants—hence freer of disease. 

It HyPpeR-HumMus — Peat that has 
been spread out, fertilized, a 
planted to a crop. Then screen 
ed and bagged. Full of soil | 
bacteria. Best top - dressing 
there is. 100 lb. bag $1.8 
Fertilizing value is 



