PLANTING SHRUBS 
Shrubs thrive in any well drained, fertile soil but 
most varieties require some sunshine. Soil around 
the foundation of buildings is often poor sub-soil 
out of the bottom of the cellar—this should be re- 
placed with fertile soil or properly fertilized. 
Dig hole, prune roots and plant as instructed for 
trees, (page 3). Shrubs should be planted about 
two inches deeper than they grewin the nursery, or 
with their crowns at about the surface of the earth. 
Water the plants well during the hot dry weather 
and keep the ground well worked around them. 
Planting distances vary in different situations 
and depend upon the fertility of the soil and the 
effect you wish to produce. Many prefer to plant 
Shrubs fairly close together and control their size 
by pruning. Other people plant Shrubs further 
apart to develop naturally shaped specimens. 
PRUNING SHRUBS 
Remove about one-third of top growth of shrub 
at planting time if spring planted, or following 
spring, if fall planted to facilitate establishment of 
plants. 
Many varieties of shrubs are very dormant and 
will not make proper growth the first season un- 
less severely pruned. 
Thereafter, pruning should be done to remove 
old wood and keep plant to size desired. Cut off 
damaged or frayed rocts just above the point af- 
fected. 
A. In general, all shrubs fall into two classes, 
those which should be pruned directly after flower- 
ing—Japan Quince, Deutzia, Forsythia, Honey- 
suckle, Mock Orange, Weigelia and Spirea Van 
Houttei and Thunbergi and many others which 
produce flowers in the early spring including the 
month of June. All these produce their flowers on 
the previous growth of wood. 
B. The other class 
form their flowers on 
the current year’s 
growth. Therefore 
these should be prun- 
“ ed in the early spring. 
fhe Or te Examples of these are 
as follows: Butterfly 
Bush, Hydrangea Pri- 
vet, Althea, Roses and 
GROUP A COU Spirea Anthony Wa- 
terer. 
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