NARCISSUS — DAFFODILS — JONQUILS 
The terms ‘‘Narcissus’’ and ‘’Daffodils’’ are interchangeable; 
there exists a tendency to apply the name ‘’Daffodil’’ to the va- 
rieties in which the trumpet or crown is as large or larger than the 
petals (perianth) ; while the name ‘’Narcissus’’ is usually used for 
the varieties having small cups or crowns. 
Jonquils are also a type of Narcissus; they usually bear their 
flowers in clusters and have rush-like foliage. Many of the Jonquil 
Hybrids have only the single flower and ordinary foliage. The name 
“Narcissus” is correct for any or all of the different types. 
A FEW SUGGESTIONS FOR GROWING DAFFODILS 
They will thrive in any well drained garden soil. Prepare the soil 
deeply, 12 inches or more is best. Plant at least 6 inches deep, extra 
large bulbs are better planted 7 or 8 inches deep. (Some varieties 
make larger bulbs than others.) No manure should come in con- 
tact with the bulb. If the soil needs fertility, use bone meal at the 
rate of one-fifth pound to the square yard. This should be thor- 
oughly mixed with the soil under the bulb. 
A mulch of straw or leaves will be beneficial in very severe 
climates. If the mulch is applied after the first freeze, it will prevent 
thawing and heaving. 
INDOOR 
Pot the bulbs as soon as received in a good loam soil. Some sand 
and peat moss mixed with the soil will be beneficial, also a small 
amount of bone flour; about two pounds to a bushel of soil. Bulbs 
should be potted shallow, tops of bulbs being about level with the 
top of pot. 
Old pots should be washed thoroughly, new ones should be 
soaked. Place a few pieces of charcoal or fragments of broken pots 
over drainage hole. A little ground peat in the bottom regulates 
drainage and retains moisture. 
Bury the pots outside under six inches of soil or ashes, water well. 
DIGGING-—Daffodils are best dug and separated every two or 
three years in the garden; when used for naturalizing in grass or 
wooded places they may be left undisturbed for years. Bulbs should 
be dug when the foliage turns yellow and lays flat on the ground, it 
need not be completely dry. After digging they may be planted at 
once, or spread out to dry in a cool ventilated place and planted 
any time until fall. Never dig in the fall; to do so may cause them 
to skip one year’s bloom; should they bloom, flowers will be few 
and small. 
CULTURE 
In 10 to 12 weeks move to the cellar, or any cool dark place for 
about two weeks. For a succession of bloom bring pots in at weekly 
intervals, bringing in the earlier varieties first. 
Tops should now be several inches above the soil and buds show- 
ing. Pots may now be brought inside to a temperature of 50 to 60 
degrees. Later when the flower buds are well advanced the tem- 
perature may be increased to not over 65. To put them where the 
heat is greater may cause the buds to come “’blind’’. A little liquid 
manure once a week will hasten the blooming and improve the 
quality. 
CLASSIFICATION OF DAFFODILS 
OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF ENGLAND 
The eleven divisions are as follows: 
DIVISION 1—TRUMPET DAFFODILS. 
Distinguishing Character—Trumpet or crown as long or longer 
than the perianth. 
(a) Varieties with yellow or lemon-colored trumpets, and 
perianth of same shade or lighter (but not white) . 
(b) Varieties with white trumpet and perianth, includes pink 
trumpets. 
(c) Bicolor varieties, i.e., those having a white or whitish 
perianth and a trumpet colored yellow, lemon, or prim- 
rose. 
DIVISION 2—INCOMPARABILIS. 
Cup or crown not less than one-third but less than equal to the 
length of the perianth segments. 
(a) Yellow shades with or without red coloring on the cup. 
(b) Bicolor varieties with white or whitish perianth and self- 
yellow, red-stained of rea tu 
DIVISION 3—BARRII. 
Cup or crown less than one-third the length of the perianth seg- 
ments. 
(a) Yellow shades, with or without red coloring on the cup. 
(b) Bicolor varieties with white or whitish perianth and self- 
yellow, red-stained or red cup. 
DIVISION 4—LEEDSII. 
Perianth white and cup or crown white, cream or pale citron, 
sometimes tinged with pink or apricot. 
(a) Cup or crown not less than one-third but less than equal 
to the length of the perianth segments. 
(b) Cup or crown less than one-third the length of the peri- 
anth segments. 
DIVISION 5—TRIANDRUS HYBRIDS. 
All varieties obviously containing N. Triandrus blood, such as 
Queen of Spain, Moonshine, Pearly Queen and Agnes Harvey. 
(a) Cup or crown not less than one-third, but less than equal 
to,the length of the perianth segments. 
(b) Cup or crown less than one-third the length of the peri- 
anth segments. 
DIVISION 6—CYCLAMINEUS HYBRIDS. 
DIVISION 7—JONQUILLA HYBRIDS. 
All varieties of N. Jonquilla parentage, such as Buttercup, 
Odorus, etc 
DivISION 8—TAZETTA AND TAZETTA HYBRIDS. 
Poetaz varieties, the Dutch varieties of Polyanthus Narcissus. 
DIVISION 9—POETICUS VARIETIES. 
DIVISION 10—DOUBLE VARIETIES. 
DIVISION 11—VARIOUS. 
To include N. Bulbocodium, N. Cyclamineus, N. Triandrus, N. 
Juncifolius, N. Jonquilla. 

No 
EXTRAS SENT WITH EARLY ORDERS 
