Oaklia Culture 
For the healthy growth and the lovely blooms your Dahlia 
planting should be expected to produce, just a few simple re- 
quirements are demanded. These are easy to understand and fol- 
low when we consider the manner in which the Dahlia plant 
grows. 
The root division which we plant has an eye near or on the 
part of the stalk which forms the top of the root. This eye con- 
tains the really important part of the entire root, and from it a 
stalk and feed roots grow to form the Dahlia plant. The rest of 
the root is merely a dinner basket to supply the necessary nour- 
ishment for starting the new plant. As soon as the feed roots, 
very fine at first, reach the point where they start to supply 
enough plant food to enable the newly-formed leaves above 
ground to begin work, the original root has performed its pur- 
pose, and may as well be disregarded. In proof of this, the root 
you plant may be cut in half or a still smaller portion be planted 
with a resultant vigorous plant, providing the conditions of soil 
and moisture, etc., are made right. 
Thus the new plant needs nothing in the way of fertilizer or 
irrigation until the new feed roots are established. And the more 
numerous and faster-growing these feed roots, the stronger the 
plant and the better crop of roots for the next year. Any fer- 
tilizer should for this reason, not be placed in the hole in which 
the root is planted, but spread over the entire Dahlia plot, as 
the new roots will cover in most cases the entire space allotted 
to your Dahlias. 
Some of these new roots will thicken and begin to store up 
starch and other food elements, forming the new crop of storage 
roots. It is when these are growing and the buds on the plant 
are beginning to open that plenty of plant food and water are 
necessary. It is known that one bloom in its formation requires 
many times the water and food that is needed for the foliage and 
stalk growth. 
It is clear anything which tends to interfere with the growth 
of these new feed roots will stunt the growth of the plant, so 
an over-supply of water at the start, or the presence of rotting 
vegetation or manure, anything which will cause these roots to 
rot before they reach a healthy growth, is to be avoided. Plenty 
of room is needed for root development and space between plants 
should be enough for good ventilation to avoid mildew of the 
foliage. 
With an understanding of these requirements, we can plan 
the best way to plant and care for the Dahlias. 
The soil should be loose and well drained. Spading deeply 
as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring is a neces- 
sary part of preparation. On heavy clay soil some sort of humus 
should be worked in, and some sand or fine coal ashes. If new 
clay, a dressing of agricultural lime raked in the surface after 
spading will be of advantage. If the ground has been planted to 
a root crop the year before an application of bone meal and 
potash should be made, and this worked into the surface before 
planting. About 5 pounds of bone meal and 1 pound of Muriate 
or Sulphate of Potash to every 10 plants. 
When the soil has warmed up nicely, and not until then, is 
the time to plant. DO NOT PLANT A DAHLIA ROOT IN 
COLD, WET GROUND, and expect anything but failure. Some 
varieties may pull through, but nothing is gained by planting 
‘too early. A hole about 5 inches deep in heavy soil, to as deep 
as 8 inches in light sandy soil, is dug for each root, and allow 
at least 3 feet each way between holes. This for the large varie- 
ties. The Pompons may be spaced closer, also the miniatures 
for mass effects. A stake should be driven close to the hole and 
the root laid therein with the eye or sprout facing up, and to- 
ward the stake. The root should be covered about two inches, 
and the hole gradually filled in as the plant grows. It may be 
tied to the stake with soft twine or rag to avoid cutting the stalk. 
For a bushy plant with numerous blooms the plant may be 
pinched out after the 3rd set of leaves forms. This will force 
the buds at the base of the plant to develop and the plant will 
spread out. For large blooms, pinch out the buds on each branch 
down to the base buds leaving only one bud to a stalk. This 
allows long stems for cutting or exhibition, As Pompons and 
(Over) 
