their compact fibrous root system can be moved at any season; however 
the best time is before they come into bloom, or from October through 
March, depending upon weather conditions. 
Soils 
In the culture of azaleas or camellias it is essential to have a well 
drained soil. The plants should never be placed where water may stand 
for even a few hours since this will often kill them, or at least result in 
very poor growth. Camellias are not so exacting in their soil require- 
ments as are the azaleas, but prove more satisfactory if planted in 
congenial soil. A soil conducive to good camellia and azalea growth 
should be high in organic matter, acid, and of good porosity. A well 
prepared soil for camellias or azaleas can be made by mixing one part 
of well-rotted stable manure, two parts of peat moss or woods mold, 
and three parts of sandy loam or garden earth. 
A uniform yellowing of the leaves indicates lack of nitrogen, a condition 
which can be corrected by using three ounces of ammonium sulphate to 
a gallon of water and wetting about the base of the plant. This application 
should be followed by another of fertilizer as directed in Planting. 
Yellowing between the veins of the leaves, with the veins remaining 
green, is the result of a soil that is too alkaline. To correct this condition 
apply a mixture of Ferrous Sulphate and Ammonium Sulphate to the soil 
at a rate of ¥2 pound each to 100 square feet. This treatment may be 
repeated if the symptoms persist. 
. Variegation of camellia leaves is sometimes caused by Magnesium 
deficiency, and can usually be corrected by applying about the base of 
the plant three ounces of Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts) dissolved 
in water. (These adverse conditions seldom apply when camellias and 
azaleas are planted properly and receive reasonable care.) 
Planting 
In choosing a location for camellias and azaleas it is well to remember 
that both will thrive in full sun or partial shade, but the latter exposure 
is more desirable as it is protection against sun and frost. Camellias 
are somewhat susceptable to sun scald; partial shade prevents this. A 
very important detail to remember is that after a night of freezing, the 
direct rays of the early morning sun may injure the buds of many varieties. 
On this account a spot that gives shade until about 10 o’clock will gener- 
ally be preferable. The Kurume azaleas will stand more ful! sun, more 
shade, and in general are more hardy than the Indica varieties. 
When the plant is received from the nursery it is well to remember a 
second important detail; it should not be set out any deeper than it was 
in the nursery. If there is any doubt regarding this item, it is advisable 
to plant shallow rather than too deep; an inch or two of the burlap can 
be left showing above the ground. The burlap can best be left on the 
ball; it will rot in a short time. The soil should be packed firmly around 
the roots, and the plant thoroughly watered. A heavy mulch of pine 
straw or oak leaves will help conserve soil moisture and also maintain a 
desirably cool temperature about the roots. This mulch will also help — 
discourage the growth of weeds. Camellias and azaleas should never 
be allowed to suffer for want of water. Such a condition will result in 
