

poor growth and few flowers. Spraying the plant with water before 
and in the early morning after heavy freezes helps to minimize the 
danger of injury therefrom. If artificial protection is used against freezes, 
the cloth or other covering should be at least six inches away from the 
tips of the branches. 
Fertilize the plants in late winter or early spring, then if the soil is poor, 
again about the end of June. Any fertilizer that is low in phosphate and 
high in nitrogen and potash, such as a 6-8-6, and is acid in its reaction 
will do, but it is best to use a brand that has been especially prepared for 
camellia and azalea culture. Organic nitrogen such as cotton seed meal 
or castor bean meal are especially desirable as ingredients of fertilizer. 
The castor bean meal is additionally beneficial as a deterrent against 
moles. 
Insect Pests 
Azaleas and camellias have very few pests. The scale which feeds 
on the underside of the leaves and sometimes on the twigs can be con- 
trolled by spraying nursery Volck or Sunoco, or any good miscible oil 
spray. The directions furnished with the commercial product should be 
followed in its application. Spraying for scale is best done in the winter- 
time when freezing temperatures are not anticipated; it should never 
be done in freezing weather, for the plant would lose its leaves. These 
sprays diluted may be applied for scale in the spring after the new 
growth has begun to harden, and thereafter as necessary except when 
growth is tender and during extreme hot weather. Nicotine sulphate 
sprays can be used to control red spider, white fly, and aphids except 
when growth is tender. 
Disease Symptoms 
A blight or “die-back’"’ may attack azaleas and camellias, usually a 
result of poor cultural practices, i. e., not enough drainage, plants too 
deep, or over fertilization. This is characterized by wilting with eventual 
dying. The pith of the affected twigs take on a brown color. Where this 
condition occurs, good drainage should be provided, the plants should 
be lifted if too deeply set, and diseased twigs should be excised to a 
point at least two inches below the discolored pith. 
NEW CAMELLIAS 
ANNIE GRAY—This variety has been sold by us as Orton No. 50. The 
parent plant was introduced into Orton Garden about 40 years ago, and 
its origin is unknown. We have been unable to find it described by any 
other nursery. It is listed under Rare Varieties. 
CAPTAIN IKE DAVIS—Rose red, loose peoniform, late, very hardy. 
The large parent plant of this variety is 50 or 60 years old, and its origin 
is obscure. Its large ruffled petaloids and sprinkling of golden yellow 
stamens together with its immense blooms (averaging 5” across) make 
this variety truly outstanding. Available next year in one-year gratts. 
GEORGE B. BARRETT—This seedling is a large, pure white, loose 
semi-double, which blooms early (along with ARAJISHI and DAIKAGURA), 
and has a few golden stamens scattered among the petals and petaloids. 
Its early blooming habit, which assures successful flowering, makes this 
