concentrate this application in the hole as it is prepared for planting. In this case, 
mix a good handful of the fertilizer in the soil under and around the plant. Avoid 
having any of the fertilizer in direct contact with the roots. This latter method will 
often remedy the failure of plants to make good clumps of roots. 0-20-20 is a commer- 
cial fertilizer formula indicating; no nitrogen elements, 20 per cent phosphorus and 
20 per cent potash. 
In average garden soil it will not be advisable to apply a nitrogeneous fertilizer 
at planting time, but if experience has proven that satisfactory growth early in the 
season is not possible without it, a small amount of barn-yard manures (well rotted) 
may be mixed with the soil at planting time. Nitrogen fertilizers are more satisfactorily 
used later in the season, after buds are formed, to give extra size to the blooms. 
A small quantity scattered lightly around the plant, not nearer than a foot from the 
stalk, and watered into the soil will decidedly increase flower size. One or two more. 
very light, applications at intervals of a week or ten days may further increase size. 
Dried blood and sheep manures are commonly available sources of nitrogen at most 
supply dealers. It should be noted that with the application of a nitrogen fertilizer the 
keeping qualities of the roots is reduced. Each subsequent application further reduces 
this keeping property and excessive application will injure the plant, and in cases, 
destroy it. Also, such applications tend to reduce the vitality of the stock for the 
following year. It will be well for each grower to determine which is of greater im- 
portance to him; extreme size, or good keeping roots of high vitality. Many leading 
exhibitors sacrifice their stock for utmost size of bloom, and purchase, or grow, other 
stock for the following year. Others try to strike a happy medium and still others avoid 
nitrogen fertilizers for 'forcing'’ and depend on heavy disbudding and pruning for com- 
parable results. 
Regardless of which of the above plans are followed, some disbudding must be 
employed to bring out all the size possible in a bloom. After the buds appear it will 
be noted that they usually come in clusters of three. The one in the center is generally 
the strongest. Remove the other two and the effort that the plant would expend in 
producing flowers from them goes to the terminal bud which is left. The next two 
or three sets of branches (at each leaf below the terminal bud) may also be removed, 
further increasing the size of the bloom to be produced. Be sure, however, that at least 
one set of branches is left to produce the next flowers. 
Many varieties have a tendency to grow straight up with but a single stalk. If a 
bushy plant is desired pinch out the top of the plant when it is about eighteen inches 
tall. Other varieties may produce too many branches in which case some may be cut 
out. Plants which have been pinched out may be dis-budded as per instructions above. 
Successful control of insects is of prime importance in most localities, owing to the 
direct damage they do to the plants and the indirect damage caused by the insects 
carrying diseases from one plant to another. The first principles of effective control 
are proper insecticides and thorough applications at frequent intervals. Below are 
listed a few of the common pests and control. 
APHIDS cause a lessening of vitality by sucking plant juices. Easily detected as they 
usually are found in clusters on the stems and around buds. They may be black, 
red, or green, soft bodied insects which remain quite stationary on the plant. 
Control by dusting or spraying with contact insecticides such as nicotine sulfate 
(Black Leaf 40), pyrethrum extracts or rotenone according to manufacturer's 
directions. DDT has no effect on these insects but the insecticides mentioned for 
their control can be combined with DDT when the latter is used for the control 
of other insects. 
CORN BORERS drill holes into the stalk, usually at a leaf or branch. They live and 
grow inside the stalk eventually enlarging their bores until a portion of the plant 
is so weakened that it breaks down. The adult moth of the corn borer lays it's 
eggs on a leaf. As the eggs hatch the larva starts moving toward the stalk eating 
tiny trails in the leaf surface. It is at this time, only, that control measures are 
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