CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 





Fertilize beds lightly each year. 
Water thoroughly once every 2 or 3 weeks from 
late spring to fall. 
Cultivate soil frequently. Prevent packing and 
baking of the soil surface. 


No one should experience difficulty in growing the lovely 
Bearded garden iris. In fact they are so easy to grow that they 
are among the topmost popular of all flowering plants. But like 
all flowers they respond to proper care and treatment, giving 
more and better flowers for moderate attention. 
In our experience they prefer a non-acid soil. Lime need not 
be applied unless it is known that the soil is definitely on the acid 
side. In any event use lime sparingly, if at all. All fertilizers 
added to the soil should be non-acid forming such as Vigoro, 
Steamed bone meal or superphosphate. Some may be incorporated 
in the soil at the time of planting, particularly the bone meal—a 
handful to a plant well worked in the soil—or each spring as a 
general surface feeding cultivated into the soil. 
The soil should be thoroughly spaded to a depth of at least 
ten inches and if available at that time work in a generous amount 
of well-rotted barnyard manure or a smaller quantity of sheep 
guano. The latter is rich in nitrogen and may cause an excessive 
amount of weak growth or burning of the roots if it is not well 
mixed with the soil. Use an average amount of garden sense just 
as you would in preparing the garden for vegetables and your 
soil will be fine for Iris. 
They do best in a well drained, light garden soil. Give them 
either full sun or partial shade. That is, shade for not over half 
the day. In extremely heavy soils the clay may be lightened by 
the application of gypsum, sand, or humus material such as com- 
post or peat as your budget permits. 
Planting the Rhizomes or Iris roots. Prepare a hole large 
enough to take the spread of the roots. Remembering that the top 
of the rhizome should be flush with the garden level or just slightly 
higher, scoop out enough soil to allow a cushion to support the 
rhizome. Spread the roots out to the side so they rest in a non- 
tangled, natural position. Then fill in the planting hole with soil 
and water the plants to settle the soil about the roots. Keeping 
the soil moist and well cultivated at all times makes for better 
growth of the plants. It encourages the production of fibrous roots 
with which the plants feed 
The best planting time for iris generally is from June to Sep- 
tember. In mild climates planting may be extended into the month 
of November. Where the winters are cold, it is best to practice 
early planting for this allows the plants to become well rooted 
and established before going dormant. 
Winter protection is advisable in northern severe winters. 
After the ground has frozen, in winter, apply a covering of clean 
material—such as straw, pine boughs, salt or marsh hay or other 
material which will not pack down tight. It is very essential that 
ventilation be present at all times while the covering prevents 
freezing and thawing of the soil. Leaves and manure should not 
be used as a mulch. They pack tightly and encourage rotting of 
the roots. The mulch should be removed in late spring after danger 
of frost has passed. 
Iris have few pests and it pays to keep a watch out for them 
Iris leaf Blotch is a fungus causing brown spots on the leaves in 
late spring and summer. These spotted leaves should be cut off 
carefully and burned. Particular care should be used in remov- 
ing the diseased parts so that the spores of the blight are not 
spread to healthy leaves. Keep the garden clean and free of 
weeds and dead leaves. 
Iris borer has caused some trouble in some parts of the 
country. It works within the rhizome and may be suspected when 
a frond of iris leaves begins to wilt. Examine the rhizome for 
evidence of borings and if present either cut out with a knife or 
kill the borer by working a wire into his channel. It is best to take 
up the infected rhizome, remove the borer, cut back the leaves and 
replant. 

——e 
PLANTING YOUR NEW IRIS 

Mix in well a 
handful of 
pam 
bonemeal 
FILL IN WITH 
GOOD SOIL ¢ y 
SPACING FOR GROUPS OF IRIS 
IN THE GARDEN 

DIVISION OF ESTABLISHED 
CLUMPS | 

(1) for Normal Division 
(2) for Maximum Division 
NEVER ALLOW PLANTS TO GET CROWDED 

30 VE—Very Early. E—Early. EM—Early to Midseason. M—Midseason. ML—Midseason Late. L—Late. VL—Very Late. 
