PLANTING OF ROOTS—Scoop out soil about six inches deep. Drive 
a stake at edge of hole to support plant in the latter stages of its 
growth, particularly when in flower, Lay root flat in hole with 
the eye upward and cover with two inches of finely pulverized 
soil, gradually filling in the hole to level with the ground, as the 
plant grows. 
PLANTING OF GREEN PLANTS—When your plants are received re- 
move from package and soak for a few minutes in enough water 
to cover the paper pots, in order to freshen the plants after their 
journey. Set out plants in the evening or on a cloudy day after 
removing plant from pot. Preparation of soil for plants are the 
same as for roots. Shading potted plants for the first few days 
after planting during the warmest part of the day is advised. 
CULTIVATION—Cultivating the soil between the plants will prove 
very beneficial in controlling weeds and conserving moisture. AS 
the plants grow larger, cultivation should be shallower in order not 
to destroy the surface feeder roots. 
WATERING—During prolonged draughts water thoroughly every week 
or ten days as needed. To control red spider spray the plants for- 
cibly with water paying particular attention to the under side of 
the leaves. 
INSECTS—A weekly spraying with some good insecticide from the 
time your plants are a few inches high will usually control in- 
jurious insects. 
DISBUDDING—For the best flowers and stems disbudding must be 
practiced. When the plants appear leave only one stalk. After 
three sets of leaves have formed pinch out the center of the plant. 
Very shortly at the base of the leaves laterals or suckers will 
appear. In time, they will be the branch, stem and flower. As 
these branches develop a cluster of buds will appear on the top 
of the branch. Remove all but the terminal bud. Lateral or suck- 
er growths below this cluster of buds should also be removed, 
leaving two or four sets of laterals to develop into new flowering 
branches. 
FERTILIZATION—An application of a low nitrogen (About 2 per 
cent) but high phosphate rate fertilizer beneath the root or plant 
at planting time should maintain the plant until buds appear. At 
that time a handful of good potato fertilizer (4-8-8) should be 
placed around the plant, but not touching it and raked into the 
soil. Cow or horse manure spread over the garden in the fall 
after the dahlias are dug will greatly increase the productiveness. 
Rye or some other good cover crop planted in the fall will also be 
very beneficial. , 
DIGGING & STORAGE—By November list even if frost has not killed 
the tops of your plants the rocts should be dug and stored for the 
winter, Care must be taken not to strain or break the necks of 
the root. Cut stalks to within 2 inches of the root and store 
in a cool cellar in boxes lined thickly with newspaper. Dry sand 
covering the roots will aid in bringing them safely through the 
winter. 
If your present method of storage is satisfactory disregard the 
above as every cellar presents its own problem and a method 
that would apply to one person would prove very unsatisfactory 
to another. In the Spring when the eyes show plainly divide the 
roots with a sharp knife or pruning shears making sure that every 
division has one or more eyes. 
PLEASH NOTE:—tThe above hints are intended to assist the amateur 
in growing good dahlias. It is assumed that the professional 
grower is familiar with the culture of dahlias. 
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