Suggestions for Culture of Cascades 
The Cascade varieties are all of exceptional 
beauty and exquisite daintiness. While chosen : 
primarily for the ease with which they may be 4S ancis 
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trained to hang or ‘‘cascade’’ downward, there ISTH. 
are numerous ways in which they may be 
made to yield equally gratifying results with a 
minimum expenditure of time and effort. 
Planted in the garden and stopped a number 
of times in the usual manner, these little- 
heralded horticultural phenomena will develop 
a rugged bushiness of free flowering growth 
that for sheer beauty may, perchance, outrival 
the much vaunted glory of the larger and 
more. pretentious of their brethren. 
Grown in pots and without special training, 
they may be taken care of in the open until 
such time as it is desirable to transfer them 
indoors, where their presence may lend a bit 
of sunshine to what otherwise might be a 
HORIZON TAL~ 
POSITION ABour 
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neee HIZ GALVANIZED 
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colorless interior. Let the fall season of dark and warmed by the comforting cheer irradiating type strategically placed on window ledge, 
shadows and crispness of air be brightened from one or more well-groomed plants of this bench or table. 

Tying and Pinching (see drawings and photos) 
TYING AND PINCHING (See drawings and photos above). When 
the plant grows to about 12 inches tall (drawing No. 1) it is bent 
from about the middle and the end tied to a fairly long No. 12 size 
galvanized wire which is bent at an angle of 45 degrees (as in 
Fig. 2). The supporting wire should point to north and the leader 
must be tied to it with raffia (Figs. 2 and 3) at least every seven 
days. All the laterals and the sublaterals should be pinched at 
every second or third joints as in Fig. 2, and this operation should 
be repeated continuously as they grow until around September 15th. 
As the plant increases in width an additional support is necessary to 
‘prevent toppling over on one side as in Fig. 4. The main leader is 
lowered gradually so that it will be in the horizontal position around 
September 15 as in Fig. B. When the buds begin to form the main 
stem starts the gradual vertical bending from its horizontal level 
with the surface of the plant now facing south as in Picture 5. When 
the buds show color, the pot is placed on high position so that the 
sprays will not touch the ground and bent to the final vertical 
position (as in Fig. C. Also see cut for Jane Harte). 
PREPARATION OF SOIL. Prepare the compost by mixing well 
three-fifths by volume of medium heavy loam and the balance two- 
fifths of leaf mold and well decayed cattle manure (proportion of 
two-thirds leaf mold and one-third manure). In addition to this a 
5-inch potful of bone-meal may be added to every three bushels of 
this soil. This compost may be prepared in large quantity and can 
be stored in shelter for later use. 
FERTILIZER. Twice a month applications of commercial fertilizers 
(Gaviota, vigoro, etc.) should be made during the growing months 
starting from early June up to the formation of their buds. The 
amount of fertilizer to be used depends largely upon the size of the 
plant. It is cautioned not to over-feed the plant, always remember- 
ing that very light applications frequently made are far better than 
over-dosing the plant at any single application. 
RE-POTTING. The plants should be shifted into 6-inch pots when 
bought from us in little pots. Further two to three shiftings into 
larger pots are required during the season, and these shifts should 
be made before the plants form their first root network on the inside 
of the pot. The final potting may be made about the middle of 
August and the sizes of pots used depends on the size and variety. 
