General Cultural Suggestions 
Following are a few vital facts pertinent to the subject of successful 
chrysanthemum culture: 
SOIL CONDITIONING—The chrysanthemum is a gross feeder. 
therefore, necessary that the soil in which it is to be planted con- 
It is, 
tains a sufficient amount of plant food to supply, without the aid of 
too frequent liquid or commercial fertilizer, the 
If in doubt as to the fertility 
applications of 
demands of a long growing season. 
of your land, we suggest that you work in with it a thoroughly 
rotted manure, well in advance of planting date and in quantities 
commensurate with the strength of the material used and the texture 
of the soil in question. Loose, sandy soil, particularly when of a 
nature unquestionably deficient in organic matter, should receive a 
heavier application per unit of space than that required by the same 
unit of space in a heavier and more productive soil. 
The nature and amount of plant food to be used during the growing 
season can best be judged by the character of your soil and the 
variety and condition of the plants to be treated. Avoid the hazards 
of over-fertilization. Discontinue feeding when buds begin to show 
color. 
PLANTING—Early planting 
formatoin of a robust root system, a prerequisite to the growth of 
is an important factor in the timely 
strong, sturdy plants and quality flowers. When seasonal blooms 
are desired at an advanced date it is doubly important that planting 
be done early in order that plants may attain sufficient height to 
permit the taking of crown buds. (SEE BUD SELECTION.) 
WATERING—Variation in the composition of soils and variation in 
climatic conditions, due to geographical differences, render the 
matter of watering a problem for local study and solution. However, 
here are a few salient points ever to be kept in mind if you are to 
avoid the consequences of a careless, haphazard plan of irrigation. 
We cannot emphasize too strongly the necessity of keeping the 
roots of your plants moist at all times. To subject them to a drought, 
however slight, will cause a sudden check in growth, a setback that 
may later be responsible for a host of trouble—the appearance of 
rust, mildew, blighted or blackened foliage and the premature 
hardening of wood, premature setting of buds with a sequence of 
partially developed and mis-shapen flowers. 
Avoid overwatering as it is apt to lead’ to equally disastrous 
results. Confine your irrigation activities to a time of day sufficiently 
early to allow superficial drying of foliage before nightfall. 
STOPPING—When the young plant has become firmly established 
—normally within a period of two weeks from planting date—pinch 
\ 
out the top. This simple operation is known as ‘'stopping’’ and will 
bring about the formation of three or more new shoots, the subse- 
quent handling of which must be governed ‘by whatever plan you 
may have for their future disposition. In order to dwarf your planis, 
make them bush out, and to increase their yield of blooms it may 
be necessary to ‘‘stop’’ them a number of times, the proper number 
to be determined by the particular variety of plant in need of such 
attention and the specific result desired. 
RESTRICTION OF LATERAL GROWTH—A plant, 
retain no more than one, two or three stems, will develop much 
when allowed to 
larger blooms than it will if permitted to grow without restriction. 
This 
commercials, spidery sorts and some of the larger anemones. 
is especially true of the large flowering types—exhibitions, 
When the plant's energy, governed as it is by the amount of 
needed elements it assimilates from the soil, is used in feeding a 
profusion of growth, we cannot well hope to obtain maximum results 
as regards size, color or shape of bloom. 
Excellent results may be had by raising four, six or eight disbudded 
blooms on plants of the larger pompon, anemone and single types 
suitable for the purpose, the number to be chosen varying with the 
type and variety of plant. 
BUD SELECTION—Early in August many varieties produce a cluster 
of buds, the central and larger of which is termed the early or 
crown and the encircling buds vegetative. For exhibition types and 
many of the large commercials, it is desirable to ‘‘take’’ the crown 
bud. ? 
While the term ‘take the bud’’ may be enshrouded in ambiguity, 
it simply involves the mechanics of removing the buds not to be 
used and reserving the one chosen as the best for development. 
if you wish to ‘“‘take’’ 
Therefore, the crown bud, you remove the 
encircling buds and reserve the one in the center. 
If it is desirable to use what is commonly known as the terminal 
bud, the foregoing operation is reversed. The central or crown bud 
and all but one of the encircling or vegetative buds are removed 
From the remaining bud will spring a vegetative growth that will 
in time produce another cluster of buds, the central one of which 
should be ‘“‘taken’’ or reserved and all others removed. 
All crown buds, excepting those from plants of an extremely early 
blooming habit, appearing in the months of May, June and July, 
should be removed along with all excess lateral growth. It is also 
necessary to keep all axilary and basal growth broken out. The 
plant should be given a thorough going over at frequent intervals 
in order to keep it free from all superfluous growth, thus insuring a 
‘ 
minimum waste of plant energy. 
SPRAYING—The chrysanthemum 
quently caused by the uncontrolled activities of a variety of common 
is not immune to damage fre- 
insect pests; neither is it secure against the inroads of malignant 
fungi that may find in it a beneficent host unless preventative 
measures are taken. It is 
therefore wise and prudent to start 
spraying early. 

