LOISPAN GELES 
27 
THE ORCHID CACTUS—ITS CULTURE 
Reprint of an article by Mrs. Cactus Pete in Sunset Magazine 
Epiphyllums are the orchids of the cactus 
family. Originally, there were but sixteen spe- 
cies, which grew wild in the jungles of Mexico, 
Central America, and the northern part of South 
America. These species were epiphytic, and 
grew in decayed trees or in clumps of moss. 
Many of them were found side by side with 
true orchids. 
Epiphyllum hybridizers are working to achieve 
a greater color range, increased size of blooms, 
longer lasting flowers, and a longer blooming 
period. 
During the past twenty years, the blooming 
period of Epiphyllums has been nearly doubled ; 
there are now many plants that have a few 
scattered blooms the year around and masses of 
bloom during late April, May, and early June. 
A few of the newer hybrids, when well cared 
for, have flowers 10 to 11 inches across. Some 
types have a lacquered, waxy appearance, while 
others are crepy and almost veil-like in texture. 
As several of the original species possess 
night fragrance, this characteristic has been 
transmitted to some of the new varieties. The 
night fragrance is all the more surprising be- 
cause the plants are completely lacking in fra- 
grance during the day (except in the early 
morning). 
A deep, rich, pure yellow Epiphyllum is an- 
other goal of hybridizers. Up to now, the yel- 
lows have been in the lighter tones. 

Heliocereus speciosus—one of the parents 
of the Orchid Cacti. 
BASKET CACTUS ORCHIDS 
The wild species are all quite large types, and 
most of the hybrids developed as a result of 
crosses with them have also been large-flowered. 
However, successful crosses have been made 
with a small-flowered pink species (No palxochia 
phyllanthoides). From the original hybrid of 
this species have been developed an entire series 
of ‘basket type cactus orchids” which are most 
adaptable for growing indoors. These types 
have smaller, longer lasting blooms that are ex- 
cellent for corsages. Also, they are suitable for 
growing in limited spaces, are very free bloom- 
ing, and tend to bloom twice a year. Their 
color range is extensive. 
EPIPHYLLUM CULTURE 
Epiphyllums require surprisingly little care 
and need not be grown in hothouses (except in 
frosty areas) although they are very adaptable 
to indoor culture. 
SOIL MIXTURE 
After much experimenting, we feel that the 
best soil mixture for the amateur grower to use 
in potting Epiphyllums is one of equal parts of 
good topsoil, leaf mold, and coarse building 
sand (fine sand often cakes), with a generous 
amount of charcoal or charred wood added. 
This soil mixture will be adequate for the 
first year but, as the plants grow larger and use 
up the nutrients, some feeding will be necessary. 
A balanced commercial fertilizer (applied ac- 
cording to directions) or well-rotted manure 
(both steer and rabbit manures have given good 
results) may be used. Epiphyllums respond 
well to liquid fertilizers, but these must be 
applied more often. Dry fertilizers, on the other 
hand, may be applied before and after the 
blooming season, and will suffice for the entire 
year. An occasional change of diet to include a 
small amount of blood meal or bone meal is 
recommended by some growers. 
If leaf mold cannot be obtained, it seems 
best to use equal parts of loam and gravel, or 
coarse sand, with a generous handful of well- 
rotted manure in the bottom of the container. 
By the time the roots reach the manure, they are 
strong and well-established and there is no 
danger of their burning. 
The use of peat moss by amateur growers is 
discouraged, as it holds excess moisture, and 
there is danger that plants will suffer from 
over-watering. Also, peat moss may tend to 
make the soil too acid and thus encourage root- 
rot. 
