
PRIMULA PULVERULANTA 
JULIAE HYBRIDS 
The original of this charming primrose came from the 
Caucasus Mountains some 40 years ago. Its hybrids are 
hardy and multiply rapidly. If planted in partial shade 
and given plenty of water, it will blossom 
from spring through the summer and fall. 
Fine for rock garden and border. Try the 
claret or burgundy-red shades near 
orange-copper for accent. 
The many named hybrids, which have 
been added to the Juliae family, have so 
enlarged its color range that it now con- 
tains the pure white of SCHNEEKISSEN, 
ALBA and SNOW BUNTY; the creamy 
yellow of DOROTHY; the pink and rose 
shades of MRS. McGILLIVRAY, ROSEA, 
SPRINGTIME, CRISPI, E. R. JAYNES, and 
KINLOUGH BEAUTY; the blue of BUNTY; 
and the bluish or violet tones of HELENAE, 
PAM, PRIMROSE LODGE, and WEE 
GEM. Our planting includes all of the 
above named varieties, and also many 
unnamed hybrids. 
Since our seed is from hand pollinated 
blooms, we will have only a limited sup- 
ply, and orders should be placed early. 
Pkt. $1.00. 
PLANTING DIRECTIONS are enclosed 
with each seed order. 
GENERAL PRIMULA CULTURE 
Three fundamentals for the successful growing of all Primroses are: 
(1) Sufficient drainage; (2) Partial shade; (3) Plenty of water during the 
blooming season. The soil should be deeply dug and enriched with 
barnyard manure, raw bone meal, or a balanced commercial fertilizer. 
Divide Acaulis and Polyanthus every two years, otherwise the blooms 
tend to become smaller. After plants have finished blooming, or in early 
Fall while the ground is still warm, they should be dug, the soil washed 
off the roots, and the plant segments broken apart. Trim both tops and 
roots and replant the divisions, being careful to water and shade them 
until new growth has become established. After the flowering period 
is over and the plant has become dormant, clip the foliage of Acaulis, 
Polyanthus and the Candelabras about 2’ inches above the crown. 
The Primroses described in this catalogue are hardy and need protection 
only in SUB-FREEZING weather, when the local practices used for per- 
ennials may be safely followed. In localities where early snow blankets 

the plants, they rarely need further protection. In dry climates, mulch, 
with peat, straw, or hardwood sawdust, or sprinkle them to encase them 
in ice. In mild, damp climates, evergreen boughs are the best covering, 
for they afford air drainage and lessen the danger of rot. In wet climates 
do not allow a soggy blanket of leaves to collect on the Primroses. 
Primroses are unusually vigorous and healthy and the few garden ills 
worth mentioning in their connection, are more likely to affect plants 
weakened from the lack of proper care. The strawberry weevil, described 
as the ‘white grub of the May beetle’, usually attacks only older plants 
which have been left in the same location for two or more years. Its 
presence is indicated by yellow leaves, and, in extreme cases, by wilted 
foliage and blooms. In small gardens the Primroses may be dug, the 
weevils washed off the roots, and the plant reset in a new location. As a 
preventive for the beetle, from mid-May through the Summer, use a poison 
bait which may be obtained at any seed store. This bait will also help 
in solving the slug and snail problem. Red Spider, a well known mite, 
sometimes attacks the under side of the leaves during hot, dry weather. 
It is effectively controlled by washing off the tiny webs with a strong 
spray of water, or by dusting with sulphur when the outdoor temperature 
is 85° or over. During abnormally wet weather, black spots on leaves 
may occur. Apparently these spots do not injure the plant materially, 
but merely detract from its appearance. These usually disappear with 
the advent of warm, sunny weather. Controlled by any fungicide dust 
containing copper. 

P. SIEBOLDII 

