RADISH, Continued 
Early Scarlet Globe—Globular, slightly 
elongated, bright scarlet. 24 days. 
Early Scarlet Turnip, White Tipped— 
Carmine red with white tip. Flesh 
white, crisp and mild. 26 days. 
French Breakfast—Roots thicker toward 
bottom. 1'-in. long by % to %-in. 
Dull scarlet, white tipped. 25 days. 
Sparkler—Choice early variety, a su- 
perior strain of the old Scarlet Turnip 
White Tip. Bright scarlet top, clear 
white base, and small, tender tap-root. 
Juicy, pure white flesh, snappy flavor 
25 days. 
White Icicle—Tapering roots 5 to 5'2- 
in., very white with pure white, mild 
flesh. 27 days. 
White Strasburg—Popular white sum- 
mer variety. 4 to 5 in. long. Tapered 
and smooth. Thicker than White Icicle. 
40 days. 
Fall and Winter Varieties 
Rose China Winter—Popular, very dis- 
tinct winter sort. Good for late salads. 
Cylindrical blunt, smooth, bright rose- 
red. Flesh white, very firm and pun- 
gent. 52 days. 
Long Black Spanish— Good keeping 
winter variety. White, crisp and pun- 
gent. 8 to 9 in. long, slightly tapered. 
58 days. 
Round Black Spanish — Black-skinned, 
with pure white flesh, crisp, solid and 
pungent, 7 to 10-in. long and 2 to 3-in. 
thick. 60 days. 
SPINACH 
Plant very early in spring—or start 
seed in fall (giving it protection by 3” 
of straw over the winter) and enjoy an 
early spring crop. Cut all spinach be. 
fore hot weather as it doesn’t do well 
in extreme heat. Sow again in August 
or September for fall crop. Spinach 
should be gathered before the flower 
spike appears. 
Bloomsdale Savoy, Long Standing (fr) 
—A few days later than regular Blooms- 
dale Savoy. Holds from 12 to 14 days 
longer. 42 days. 
New Zealand — Thrives in dry, hot 
weather. Can be picked repeatedly all 
season. Not a true spinach, but similar 
when cooked. 70 days. 
Nobel, Giant, Thick-Leaved (fr) — 
Large, vigorous, spreading plant, slow 
to form seed stalks. Extremely heavy 
yielder. Very deep green leaves. 45 
days. 
SQUASH 
Plant about same time as corn—and in 
hills. Does best in rich, sandy Joam, 
and is helped by fertilizing the hills. 
When in the third leaf, thin to 4 plants 
per hill. Cover every fourth joint with 
earth to encourage extra root forma- 
tion. Bush varieties may be planted in 
hills 3’ to 4’ apart. 
Summer Varieties 
Cocozelle or Italian Vegetable Mar- 
row—A long Italian squash. 18 to 24 
inches long and 4 in. thick. Dark green 
marked with yellow and light green. 
60 days. 
Early Prolific Straightneck — Earlier, 
smaller, and more productive than Giant 
Summer Straightneck and more uniform. 
Brilliant yellow. Fine for home or mar- 
ket. Pkt. 10c. 
Early White Bush Scallop — Fruits 
greenish when young, become white at 
maturity. 3-in. long, 72 to 8'-in. wide. 
53 days. 
Giant Summer Crookneck — Prolific, 
bush type plant, curved neck fruits 
around 4 to 5S-lb., 20 to 24-in. long. 
4 to S-in. diameter. 56 days. 
Zucchini Fordhook — Honorable men- 
tion. Long, slim and very dark green. 
Bush-like plants small enough for any 
home garden. Easy to grow. 60 days. 
Zucchini Bush—About 6 in. long at 
edible stage. Flesh greenish-white and 
tender. 56 days. 
Fall and Winter Varieties 
Butternut — Deep buff-colored, bottle- 
shaped fruits. Smooth, hard shell. Solid 
fine textured flesh, that is deep yellow, 
dry, sweet, with excellent flavor. 12-in. 
long, upper or neck section 3'2-in. 
diameter. 85 days. 

Golden Table Queen— All-America 
medal 1939. Skin is deep golden, flesh 
orange, dry, fine flavor and texture. 
Table Queen or Des Moines (fr) — 
Acorn-shaped, green, deeply furrowed; 
flesh rich yellow, dry, mealy, delicious. 
Convenient size for baking and serving 
in halves. 100 days. 
Warted Hubbard (fr)—Large, very dark 
green shell and heavily warted. Flesh 
deep orange and of excellent quality. 
120 days. 
SWISS CHARD 
Requires about same treatment as beets. 
Cultivate frequently. Leaves may be 
gathered during summer and fall. New 
ones will grow quickly. 
» In bulk at money-saving prices. 
Special quotations to market gardeners. 
Prices subject to change without notice. 

Lucullus—Most popular Chard. Upright 
in growth, with yellowish-green curled, 
crumpled leaves. Thick, broad and light 
green stems. 50 to 60 days. Pkt. 10c. 
TOMATOES 
Do best in sandy, well pulverized loam. 
Sow seed in hotbed or indoors. When 
plants are about 2” high, set out, 3” 
apart, in boxes or pots—later trans- 
plant into the garden. Or keep in flats 
until all danger of frost is past, and 
then set plants out directly into the 
garden. Water around the roots of the 
plants when setting them out, if ground 
is dry. Cultivate frequently until plants 
shade the ground. Remove all but the 
two or three strongest branches. Study 
methods of staking and training vines 
and adopt the one best suited to your 
situation. 
Beefsteak—Rich scarlet-red, extra large 
fruits, more or less ribbed. Juicy, solid, 
with rich sub-acid flavor. One of the 
best for home use. 90 days. 
Bonny Best—Second early variety, valu- 
able for canners. Medium-vine, not very 
hardy. Medium-sized, apple-shaped, 
solid fruits, bright scarlet. Start indoors 
and set out after all danger of frost is 
past. 73 days. 
Earliana or Spark’s Earliana — Open, 
spreading, medium small vines. Red 
fruits run to medium size. This seed is 
selected for thick, smooth fruit. 66 days. 
Golden Queen—Good for juice and for 
home gardens. The fruit is a deep 
golden yellow color, and vines medium 
large. Very mild flavor, smooth and 
solid. 84 days. 
John Baer—Thick, scarlet (similar to 
Bonny Best). Smooth, firm, medium 
large fruit. 70 days. 

THE OLD GARDENER reminds you 
TOMATOES are the Number One crop of the home garden: give 
them the attention they’re worth. Use good husky plants, dark 
green with a fresh, bright look, or seeds of the newer wilt- 
resistant varieties listed in our catalog. 
Watering is particularly important with tomatoes because 
blossom end-rot (the blossom end of the fruit turns black and 
spoils the fruit) is not a bacterial or fungus disease, but is due 
to ‘ups and downs” in the water supply. 
Once you start watering, keep it up con- 
sistently—at the same level. A heavy 
mulch to hold the soil moisture at a 
uniform level is helpful. 


Don't use poultry manure in growing 
tomatoes: It forces long, sappy growth 
with practically no fruit. If you do use 
animal fertilizers on tomatoes, be sure 
to balance them by adding superphos- 
phate and muriate of potash: otherwise 
fruit may be poor. The best plan of 
feeding is to use balanced plant food 
for a side dressing, applying it regularly 
as the plants grow. 
To continue growth to the main shoot, 
trim lower leaves as plant grows (see 
Illustration 1 at left), Don’t let the plants 
develop like the second one at the left. 
And it's well worthwhile to stake and 
tie the plants, as in Illustration 2. 
17 


