Proper PLANTING and Care means 
SUCCESS 


in your Orchard... 
PRUNING FOR PLANTING: Most nursery fruit trees have a number of 
lateral branches radiating from the trunk between 24 and 36 inches above 
the bud union (Fig. 1). Select a point just above three or four symmetrically 
placed laterals and lop off the balance of the top with sharp hand shears. 
Then shorten in the selected laterals to two or three buds, or “eyes” (Fig. 2 
at right). Trim off all other lateral growth. The root system should be 
examined for loose ends of broken roots. Should any be present, care- 
fully remove them above the breaks. At the same time, insure the quick 
starting of new fibrous roots by making fresh cuts toward the ends of 
whole roots (Fig. 3). 
Some varieties, such as cherries, do not have lateral growth develop- 
ment as young nursery stock. Select three or four healthy looking buds 
24 to 36 inches above the bud union and lop off the trunk above these. 
Later in the spring you will be able to select the three or four laterals 













wanted for future development and dispose of all others. 
Be sure to keep the roots of your trees moist and protected from drying 
out. This is important. 
PLANTING: Dig large, spacious holes, at least half 
again the size of the root system. While shoveling out, 
keep the top soil in a separate pile from the subsoil 
and smash all clods. Hold the bud union at surface 
level while pushing in the topsoil first about the roots; 
following with the subsoil almost to surface level 
(Fig. 4). Play a slow stream of water on to the newly 
filled-in soil to settle it firmly about the roots (Fig. 5). 
The water does a far more efficient job than tramping 
with heavy shoes. 
Don't overlook the benefits of peat moss when plant- 
ing young fruit trees. Its remarkable ability to expand 
on becoming saturated allows for soil aeration in 
seasons of heavy rainfall. Its ability to hold moisture 
is helpful where plantings are made in sandy soils. 
Thoroughly mix a bucketful with the topsoil before 
filling in about the roots. The freshly dug holes make 
a satisfactory mixing-bowl. 
IRRIGATION: Provide a basin around the base of your 
fruit trees large enough to accommodate 25 or 30 gal- 
lons of water. Make regular investigations with a hoe 
through the dry season to determine the condition of 
the sub-surface soil, and when it appears dry, irrigate. 
A mulch of peat moss or straw in the irrigation basin 
will prevent cracking of heavy soils and conserve 
moisture in all soils. After your young trees have be- 
come established you can use a mulch of straw and 
wellrotted cow manure. 
FERTILIZATION: If well-rotted cow manure is not 
available, use any balanced commercial fertilizer, but 
keep in mind fhat your trees should have the two or 
three months grace from planting and that all fertilizers 
should be applied on the surface, and not in direct 
contact with the roots. About % pound of balanced 
commercial fertilizer can be worked into the soil in 
the trrigating basin and washed to the root area by 
succeeding irrigations. Step this up to three pounds 
for a mature tree, following the root growth outward 
from the base of the tree with ever-widening circles of 
application. 
* SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS 3k 
1. Read the instructions above, carefully. 
2. Do not plant fruit and nut trees in poorly 
drained soil. 
3. Do not use fertilizer or manure in the holes 
in which trees are planted. 
5. Prune all trees according to recommenda- 
tions given above. 
6. Protect trees from sunburn by painting with 
Tree White (page 30). 
7. Read information on pest control on page 
4. If your soil is heavy, mix Gypsum with the 31. 
soil in the bottom of the hole and mix Peat 8. Protect your investment—take good care of 
Moss with top-soil filled in around the roots. 
your trees. 
[26] 

CULTIVATION is required for preventing of moisture- 
squandering weed growth and to provide ease of 
penetration for the next application of water or rain- 
fall. Heavy soils are inclined to crack upon drying 
out and need thorough and frequent cultivation. Do 
not cultivate so deeply that surface fibrous roots are 
damaged or exposed and be careful not to “bark” 
the trunks of young trees. 
PRUNING: During the first summer try to keep the 
new growth confined to the development of three or 
four well-spaced main branches. Trim off all unneces- 
sary growth. When the leaves have dropped in late 
fall, prune as indicated in Fig. 6, shortening in the 
main branches one-third to one-half. Exception: Cherry 
trees should not be cut back; remove conflicting 
branches only. 
Use Fig. 7 as a guide for pruning in succeeding 
years of apricots, nectarines and peaches. Almond, 
apples, plums and prunes need very little pruning 
after the first year except that which is required to 
keep the tree fairly open to admit sunlight. 
WALNUTS AND PECANS: Walnuts and pecans will 
not make a good growth unless the tops are pruned 
when planting. Shorten the tops to 3 to 4 feet above the 
bud or graft. Select 3 to 5 of the best shoots for frame 
work in late spring and trim off all others. Provide a 
2”x2"x8’ stake driven two feet into the ground. 
Whole roots should be nipped off one inch just prior 
to planting and broken roots should be cut back to the 
break. Set the trees so that the bud or graft union is 
3 or 4 inches above ground level. 

