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STARTER SOLUTIONS FOR TOMATOES 
Experiments with starting solutions which are applied at 
the roots of the plants at transplanting time have shown grati- 
fying increases in early and total yields of tomatoes. 
Best results were obtained by using 2 parts of Ammoniated 
Phosphate 11-48 and 1 part of Nitrate of Potash. The solution 
was made by using 8 pounds of this special transplanting mix- 
ture dissolved in 50 gallons of water. Apply % pint of this 
solution to each plant. In small gardens a weaker solution 
may be used by using 1 ounce to 1 gallon of water and using 
% pint per plant. 
WATERING 
The best time to water plants is early in the morning or in 
the evening. Water may be given to the roots at any time, but 
should never be sprinkled over the leaves while they are ex- 
posed to the bright sunshine. If watering a plant has been 
commenced, continue to supply it as it is needed or more injury 
than good will result from what has been given. One copious 
watering is better than many sprinklings. The ground should 
always be stirred with a hoe or rake before it becomes so 
very dry as to cake or crack. Too much watering or rainfall 
will result in excessive vine growth and light sets of fruit. 
TRAINING AND PRUNING 
Of course, it is not necessary that the vines be trained or 
pruned but this does have certain advantages. Stakes may be 
set and the plants pruned to a single stem, tying perpendicular 
to the stake with cord. This is rather an expensive process 
and not followed by most commercial growers.. Many, however, 
pinch out all lateral branches as soon as they appear and con- 
fine the growth to one stem. When several clusters of fruits 
are set on, the vines are topped; this stopping further growth 
of the vine and concentrates the energy of the plant toward 
maturing the fruits that are already set. Advocates of this 
system claim larger fruits and several days of earliness over 
unpruned plants. There is more danger of spread of certain 
diseases with pruned than with unpruned tomatoes. 
Cultivate as long as the vines will permit. The last two or 
three workings of the soil should be very shallow. 
Earliness of tomatoes may be increased aS much as a week 
or ten days by use of super-phosphate or commercial fertilizer. 
Recent experiments indicate that this is best applied as a solu- 
tion to the roots of the plants at the time of transplanting. 
Some Southern growers have found it advantageous to plant 
about half as many hills of corn in the field as there are tomato 
plants. This provides much needed shade and guards against 
hot winds. It is claimed sunburning is lessened and yields in- 
crease by this method. Others stake the fields and similarly 
plant pole beans instead of the corn. 
SPRAYING AND DUSTING 
In some localities it is necessary to maintain a strict spray- 
ing schedule beginning with the small plants and continuing 
each week throughout the growing season. A solution of com- 
bined bordeaux and arsenate of lead is ordinarily used, although 
in some states where spraying laws prevent this, some non- 
arsenical must be used. We suggest use of a1% Rotenone dust. 
PSYLLID 
This minute insect often attacks tomatoes and the gardener 
loses his crop without determining the cause. They are very 
small and appear somewhat like aphids. The tomato leaves 
turn grey and roll although there is no wilting. The leaves 
become hard and the plants stunted. A very few psyllid can 
. permanently injure the tomato plant. We suggest dusting with 
‘sulphur at the rate of 75 lbs. per acre. 
Please remember that sulphur can be used on tomato plants, 
but be careful that the wind does not blow it over on canta- 
loupe, cucumber and some other crops as sulphur will kill them. 

See page 90 for Special Prices to Market Growers 
77 
