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SOME HELPFUL FACTS 
Strawberries are one of the few fruit crops from which the 
grower may obtain a return on his investment in a comparatively 
short time. Only one year intervenes from the time of planting until 
the crop of luscious berries is ready to harvest. 
The best plants obtainable are those which come from a well 
grown nearby bed. Strawberry plants can be shipped some distance 
successfully, but even then northern grown plants are preferred to 
southern plants because of the difference in advancement of the 
season and the prevalence of certain insects and diseases in the 
south. 
If the plants cannot be set out immediately on their arrival 
they should be put into cold storage or “Heeled in” temporarily. To 
“heel in” the plants, select some shady spot protected from the wind 
and dig a shallow trench. Then open the bundles and spread the 
plants out in the trench so that the roots of every plant comes in 
contact with the soil. Finally cover the roots with soil, being careful 
that the crown of each plant is just at the ground level. No roots 
should be exposed to the air nor should the crowns be covered with 
soil. 
Since there are strawberry varieties which are adapted to al- 
most any type of soil from the light sandy loams to clay loams, there 
is no ideal strawberry soil. More important than the actual soil type 
is the fertility of the soil. 
In setting the plants it is very important to have the crowns 
placed at the proper level. If the crown is set too deep, so that the 
growing point is covered with soil, the plant is very apt to die. On 
the other hand, if the crown is set so shallow that the tops of the 
roots are exposed, they will dry out and the plant will die. It is 
desirable to have the roots well spread out in planting and to firm 
the soil about the roots so that no air spaces are left about any of 
the roots. 
Blossoms should-be kept picked off the first year, and shallow 
cultivation practiced to keep the weeds down and to conserve mois- 
ture, 
