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Chrysanthemum Pot | Ate Gila 
Well grown short pot plants of Chrysanthemums have been finding a ready market in various sections 
of the country. We feel that many growers have been neglecting this valuable Fall potted plant. In 
many cases, poor attempts have been made in growing this plant and we offer the following sugges- 
tions for your consideration: 
VARIETIES—The varieties best suited to pot culture are those which lateral freely and have a medium 
to low growing habit. A variety whose laterals tend to spread is superior to one with a more upright 
growth. Good examples are: Bonnaffon De Luxe and Queen of Pinks. 
PLANTING—Cuttings may be planted into 2!/"" pots in May and later shifted into the larger pot for 
finishing. If this is done care must be used so as not to get the plants hardened too much before shifting. 
A more efficient and easier way is to set the large pots on the bench, fill them with potting soil and 
plant the cuttings directly into the finishing pots. 
Three Cuttings should be planted in a six inch pot. While four may be required for a large pot. 
WATERING AND HUMIDITY—After planting water thoroughly to set the soil around the plant roots. 
Repeat this type of watering when the soil gets on the dry side. Organic matter in the soil will facilitate 
watering and will tend to avoid extreme fluctuations in moisture supply. Keep humidity in house by 
wetting down bench and walks. 7 
PINCHING—Three pinches are sufficient for a good short compact pot plant. The first pinch should 
be approximately 15 days after planting. The second pinch about 30 days after planting and the third 
and last pinch as listed on the chart. Some of the varieties listed grow taller than others, however by 
observing the last pinching date all the varieties listed should finish reasonably uniform in height. A 
hard pinch is suggested when the last pinch is delayed until after shading. For example: Yellow 
Beauty when shaded July Ist and pinched July I Ith. 
FERTILIZING—The best program is to have regular soil tests and feed as need is indicated by these tests. 
In absence of these facilities, and starting with a relatively fertile potting soil, several light feedings 
should be made with a complete fertilizer such as Electra. This can safely be used at the rate of | 
Teaspoonful per 6" pot. This should be applied when soil is moist and never on a dry soil. 
The foliage should retain a bright green lustre throughout the life of the plant, and the lower leaves 
should never be allowed to lose their color and turn to a light green due to low fertility. A strong 
well grown pot plant is a well fed plant. 
DISEASES AND INSECTS—Pot plants should be sprayed regularly with one of the rotenone insecti- 
cides for control of red spider. Pyrethum sprays or tartar emetic will control thrip and leaf tyer. 
If plants are to be grown outdoors before final potting the foliage should be kept covered with a 
spray such as Bordeaux Mixture or Fermate to prevent leaf spot. If this is not done considerable foliage 
loss may result during wet cool weather. 
SHADING—Same procedure as for cut flowers. Black cloth should be new or in best of condition 
for very early shadings to avoid delayed and uneven blooming. When possible take cloth off at night, 
replacing before daylight. 
DISBUDDING POMPONS—Remove center bud except on the button types. This gives better spacing 
to the remaining flowers. Also the center bud generally matures earlier than the surrounding buds, 
giving the appearance of irregular blooming and premature aging. Remove this bud as early as 
convenient. 
DISBUDDING STANDARDS—Disbudding must be done early, late disbudding results in small flowers 
and weak and elongated stems directly below the flowers. 
HEIGHT—By following our directions pompons grown in 5!/."' or 6" pots will be I 1" to 13" high. Dis- 
buds will grow 14" to 17" above the top of the pot. 
FOR POT PLANT CONTINUOUS BLOOMING SCHEDULE SEE PAGE 18 
