PLANTING AND CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
PEONIES — Important — Open. your package of 
roots immediately when they arrive. Plant as soon 
as possible but if you have to wait a few days, either 
keep moist in open box in cool cellar, or better yet, 
bury in garden. 
Plant Peonies in good, well drained soil, in full sun 
if possible, and away from trees, buildings, ete. Do 
not plant where a peony has been before, unless all 
old soil is taken out and replaced with fresh. Plant 3 
to 4 feet apart; set so that the eyes point upward and 
are 2 to 8 inches below the top of ground (very im- 
portant). Give each root 2 quarts of water when 
planted, and then make a 6 inch mound of dirt above 
ground level to prevent heaving, scrape mound away 
late next spring. - 
In northern states, a mulch the first winter is 
advisable. 
Fall is the natural planting time for Peonies. 
(After Sept. 1st and before Nov. 1st if possible). 
Spring planting is possible but is not recommended. 
Never move an old clump without dividing it. Never 
dig out a piece of a clump with a spade. This invites 
decay in the part Icft. Peonies do not need to be 
divided and re-set so long as they bloom well, unless 
increase is desired. For increase, divide at 3, 4 or 5 
years, in the fall. 
Peonies need their full space of 3 to 4 feet in all 
directions. Do not crowd smaller perennials among 
them unless extra room is given. Only shallow culti- 
vation is needed, to keep down weeds and grass. Use 
fertilizers sparingly, bone meal one year, hard wood 
ashes the next, two handfuls per large plant worked 
in topsoil six inches from the stems. The use of 
animal fertilizer is dangerous, as the bacteria of 
decay which makes it valuable, may also in time 
attack the Peony root and cause a damaging rot. 
The use of balanced commercial fertilizers is not 
recommended as a general practice, as they contain 
too much nitrogen. If soil is naturally very poor, 
sandy or gravelly, commercial fertilizer may be used 
sparingly, taking care to apply it when ground is 
wet, and watering enough to prevent burning. Keep 
it away from the stems. 
Watering during dry summers, and just before 
blooming is beneficial. Give a thorough soaking with 
two gallons or more of water once every week or ten 
days, not oftener. Daily watering or sprinkling is 
injurious. After October ist, cut off all foliage close 
to the ground, and burn at once. This is the best 
preventive measure against blight, and usually the 
only one necessary. Should blight appear in spring, 
before blooming, pinch out and burn all diseased 
tissue at once, and spray with weak Bordeaux, in 
proportions of 1 to 2 pounds of bluestone and % to 
2 pounds of hydrated lime to 50 gallons of water. To 
obtain large blooms, remove all side buds when they 
are the size of small hazelnuts. To obtain a fine 
cluster, pinch out the large center bud. Blooms cut 
before half open and brought indoors will show 
finer color and last longer than blooms left on the 
plant or cut when fully open. When cutting blooms, 
let two or three leaves remain:on every stub of the 
stalks. Do not cut more than half or two-thirds of 
the blooms. A late freeze in spring sometimes causes 
buds to blast. 
Lae 
