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Plant seed in very rich soil in rows 
spaced 14” to 18” apart. Keep plants 
thinned. out from 3” to 6” apart in the 
row. (Seed may also be sown broad- 
cast.) The main crop is sown in fall 
for winter use and spring for early use. 
Bloomsdale Savoy, Long Standing (fr) 
—A few days later than regular Blooms- 
dale Savoy. Holds from 12 to 14 days 
longer. 42 days. 
Improved or Giant Nobel—Large, vig- 
orous, spreading plant, slow to form 
seed stalks. Heavy yielder. Large, thick, 
smooth, deep green leaves. 45 days. 
New Zealand —Thrives in dry, hot 
weather. Can be picked repeatedly all 
season. Not a true spinach but similar 
when cooked. 70 days. 
Viroflay — Very large, broad thick 
leaves, slightly crumpled. Old standard 
variety suitable for spring or fall sow- 
ing. Good for canning. 46 days. 
SQUASH 
Very sensitive to cold so delay plant- 
ing until warm weather. Follow same 
care in planting and culture as for 
cucumbers and melons. Plant summer 
varieties 6 or 8 seeds in hills 3’ to 4’ 
apart each way and winter squash 8 
apart. Plants bear longer if squash is 
picked off as soon as it is ready for use. 
Cocozelle (Bush) — Also called Italian 
Vegetable Marrow. Oblong shaped. 
Dark green with light green flesh of 
very delicate flavor. 60 days. 
Early Prolific Straightneck — Earlier, 
smaller, and more productive than Giant 
Summer Straightneck, and more uniform. 
Brilliant yellow. Fine for home or mar- 
ket. 50 days. 


owe Nii a ad 
Squash, Table Queen 

Early Summer Crookneck — Fruits 
curved at neck, weigh 3-lb, light yellow, 
moderately warted. 53 to 55 days. 
Early White Bush Scallop — Fruits 
greenish when young, become white at 
maturity. 3-in. long, 72 to 8¥-in. wide. 
53 days. 
Hubbard (fr)—Most widely grown of 
any winter squash. Round, warted, 
dark green with thick yellow flesh. 
Weight 12 to 14 Ibs. 100 days. 
Table Queen or Des Moines (fr) — 
Acorn-shaped, green, deeply furrowed; 
flesh rich yellow, dry, mealy, delicious. 
Convenient size for serving. 100 days. 
Zucchini—Straight, cylindrical fruits, 3 
to 4 lb., 4 to 5-in. through, 10 to 14-in. 
long. Mottled and striped green-creamy- 
gray. Delicate flavored flesh. 60 days. 
SWISS CHARD 
Plant and cultivate like beet except 
should be thinned to 8” or 10” apart. 
Lucullus—Most popular Chard. Upright 
in growth, with yellowish-green curled, 
crumpled leaves. Thick, broad and light 
green stems. 50 to 60 days. 
TOMATOES 
Light, warm and not over-rich soil is 
best and success of crop depends main- 
ly on securing a fast, strong and un- 
checked growth during the early part 
of the season. For early crops sow in 
hotbeds. Set out plants when all dan- 
ger of frost is past, but first harden off 
the plants by gradually exposing them 
to the night air and by the withdrawal 
of water until the wood becomes hard 
and the leaves thick and a dark green 
in color. Transplant carefully and culti- 
vate well as long as vines will permit. 
A second seed planting made later 
produces plants that begin to bear in 
midsummer and continue until frost. 
Improved Stone — Medium late. De- 
servedly popular with canners and mar- 
ket gardeners. Ripens evenly and is 
uniform. Fruits large, flattened, but 
deep. Smooth, attractive, scarlet-red, of 
fine flavor. 86 days. 
In bulk at money-saving prices. 
Special quotations to market gardeners. 
Prices subject to change without notice. 

Jubilee—Bright orange with few seeds. 
Good for slicing or juice. Rich in vita- 
min content. 72 days. 
Lovisiana Gulf State—An improvement 
of the famous Gulf State Market. Beau- 
tiful pink color, globe to slight flat in 
shape. High yielding, resistant to crack- 
ing. 77 days. 
Marglobe—Moderately productive, with 
heavy foliage. Vigorous and resistant to 
wilt and rust. Fruits medium large, 
nearly round, smooth, and solid. Deep 
scarlet-red. 77days. 
Pan America, New Wilt-Resistant — 
Newly developed by the U. S. Dept. of 
Agriculture. Deep scarlet, heavy and 
firm. Evenly shaped. Resistant to Fu- 
sarium wilt; nailhead rust. 75 days. 

Ponderosa—One of the largest vari- 
eties. Spreading large vines. Solid, fine 
flavored, pink, with small seed cells. 
Somewhat rough and flat. Have a ten- 
dency to crack. Late variety. 88 days. 

THE OLD GARDENER reminds you 
TOMATOES are the Number One crop of the home garden: give 
them the attention they’re worth. Use good husky plants, dark 
green with a fresh, bright look, or seeds of the newer wilt- 
resistant varieties listed in our catalog. 
Watering is particularly important with tomatoes because 
blossom end-rot (the blossom end of the fruit turns black and 
spoils the fruit) is not a bacterial or fungus disease, but is due 
to ‘ups and downs” in the water supply. 
Once you start watering, keep it up con- 
sistently—at the same level. A heavy 
mulch to hold the soil moisture at a 
uniform level is helpful. 

Don't use poultry manure in growing 
tomatoes: It forces long, sappy growth 
with practically no fruit. If you do use 
animal fertilizers on tomatoes, be sure 
to balance them by adding superphos- 
phate and muriate of potash: otherwise 
fruit may be poor. The best plan of 
feeding is to use balanced plant food 
for a side dressing, applying it regularly 
as the plants grow. 
To continue growth to the main shoot, 
trim lower leaves as plant grows (see 
Illustration 1 at Jeft). Don’t let the plants 
develop like the second one at the left. 
And it’s well worthwhile to stake and 
tie the plants, as in Illustration 2. 
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