



GUIDEBOOK FOR 1947 
Page 37 

several water changes to stop the action and 
‘spread out thinly to dry. When ready to 
make the postponed planting dip for a few 
seconds again. 
_ three times. 
Replace solution after using 
This treatment will not cure fusarium rots. 
Neither this treatment nor LYSOL is safe to 
use except on dormant bulbs and bulblets, so 
if bulbs have made appreciable root and sprout 
growth or if bulblets have been soaked for 
some time to partly germinate them, do not 
use this treatment. 
For many years we have had shocking tales 
from growers who used Lysol either too strong 
or too long or delayed planting too long with- 
out corrective measures or planted them in 
soil so dry the action of the formula was 
maintained or treated bulbs already starting 
root and top growth. So many amateurs use 
makeshift storage quarters too warm to keep 
bulbs dormant until planting time that they, 
especially, should study carefully the warn- 
ings in this articles» 
_ We think the formulas described under this 
sub title are too hazardous for the average 
amateur grower to undertake. 
If the New Improved Ceresan and DuPont 
-Spreader-Sticker cannot be purchased locally, 
‘both may be had from Vaughan’s Seed Store, 
601 W. Jackson Blvd., Chicago, Ill. or any 
seed store handling DuPont products and 
many hardware stores likewise. . 
CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE 
Also known as mercuric chloride treatment. 
We no longer recommend this soaking 
formula except for those batches of bulbs 
that appear to need correction of notice- 
able bulb disease or for bulbs received 
not already D. D. T. dusted that you wish 
to plant earlier than the minimum 20 
day egg-to-larvae-to insect cycle re- 
quired by the powder to get an assured 
kill of any thrips before planting. This 
gives the bulb a coating that wards off various 
bulb diseases and fungus attacks. We used 
to keep our bulbs healthy by this process 
long before we ever heard of thrips. Now, it 
has been conclusively proved, this treatment 
also kills any thrips and their eggs, and, if 
used, you only need keep a watchful eye for 
thrips infestation from outside sources. Re- 
member soaking processes are only advisable 
just before planting. This is not a fall treat- 
ment. If your bulbs are husked, they need 
only be soaked half as long, but we do not 
advise husking unless you know your bulbs 
are infested badly and you wish to take no 
chances on penetration to the bulb. Many 
have inquired if the treatment is safe to use 
on badly sprouted or rooted bulbs. This will 
not harm them. 
We have never discovered that any benefits 
may be had from soaking bulblets in this 
solution. 
We read an article in a Canadian ‘‘quarter- 
ly’’ by someone who called himself “I Dip- 
pem,” who said he had a lot of little batches. 
To keep them separate he obtained some of 
the women folks’ old stockings, slipped a 
batch into a toe with wooden label, tied the 
stocking above the batch and so proceeded 
until all the batches were conveniently ready 
to soak, remove and drain. 
Note Important Revision of formula by 
U. S. Dept. Ent. to allow additional time for 
penetration of stubbornly tight husks. 
Dissolve 1 oz. of the powder first in a bit of 
hot water, then pour into 7 gal. of water, pre- 
ferably above 60 degrees. Remember, cold 
water may render the treatment ineffective. 
This must be poured into a non-metal con- 
tainer, such as a crock, wooden pail, glass or 
unchipped granite ware. Varieties kept sep- 
arate in cloth bags. No difference if bulbs are 
then planted wet or dry, but the sooner the 
better as much of the coating may be lost if 
bulbs become dry. Solution weakens with 
use, so replenish 100% if used again. Soak 8 
to 17 hours, preferably night before planting. 
Be sure bags are fully immersed. Do not use 
this substance in tablet form unless you learn 
exactly how much of the tablet, in weight, is 
actually corrosive sublimate. You want a 
final solution of about 1-1000. This solution 
is safe to the hands but is a deadly poison and 
must be used and disposed of with extreme 
care. 
Suggest you dilute the solution about four 
to one and pour it about your iris, delphinium 
or perennials or on any brown spots on your 
lawn. 
A WORD TO THE WISE 
Disappointment can be minimized by leav- 
ing to the highly trained gladiolus specialist 
the experimentation and cash investment 
necessary to try out all the new offerings of 
the many hybridizers. Those who know the 
quality of competition in national, state and 
regional shows in the last few years have come 
to realize that inferior sorts rarely win. We 
list only those varieties currently winning 
first prize awards and, on occasion, a limited 
few new ones which we have grown and which, 
in our opinion, are about to take their place 
in the winning ranks. We have almost no 
errors to acknowledge. 
We have no knowledge of the existence of 
any other gladiolus catalog in the world that 
even closely approaches so exclusive a list of 
prize-winners. 
Also, it is well to leave to the federal, state 
and university entomologists, pathologists 
and to gladiolus specialists cooperating with 
them, the determination of best usages for the 
control of insect pests and bulb and plant 
diseases. Experimentation by others with 
poisons, poisonous gases and with insecticides, 
the component parts of which are not under- 
stood by the user, and with unapproved meth- 
‘ods of fertilization, usually leads to trouble. 
