is to rake them into the ground—not in actual intimate contact 
with the roots. When so applied, the moisture in the ground 
dissolves them and makes dilute solutions which feed the tree in- 
stead of damaging the roots. Fertilizing in the fall acts as a 
winter mulch and enriches the soil for the next season’s showing. 
WATERING—Avoid watering fruit trees for too much water 
harms the root system and prevents the trees coming into bearing. 
Fruit trees seldom require watering, except in very dry weather, 
then artificial watering is advised. If a drought occurs, trees 
bearing fruit must be watered. One good watering once a week 
at night and repeated the next morning, is far better than ten 
times as often if improperly done. More trees are killed than 
saved by injudicious watering. The right way is to draw away 
a little of the soil from the side of the tree, and allow all the 
water that the soil will absorb to soak in, then replace the dry 
soil. Keep the surface soil always loose to avoid crusts. 
THINNING OUT THE FRUIT—Many varieties of apples, 
pears, peaches, plums, nectarines, and apricots are naturally 
so productive that they set more fruit than the tree can properly 
mature. When this occurs, it is highly important to pick off the 
fruit. As soon as the fruit is fairly set, as a general rule, pick off 
the fruit with a spacing of 4 to 5 inches between the fruit. Very 
young trees should not be allowed to bear too heavily. 
WINTER CARE—Rabbits, cats, Rodents and their control: 
1. To protect a tree in winter from depredators, it would 
be advisable to wrap several thicknesses of newspapers or tar 
paper around the trunk and lower branches of the tree in the 
fall. The paper should not be tied too tightly and it should be 
removed in the spring. 
2. Another method to prevent damages by animals, is to 
treat the trunk with a repellent solution. The copper Soap Ro- 
dent Repellent is a dark green paint-like material which can eas- 
ily be applied to a tree or shrub, giving a repellent protective 
coating. Has fine lasting qualities, and will remain on trees 
throughout the winter and spring. This is endorsed and used 
by the Michigan State College. You may obtain this solution 
from M. J. Beck, 510 N. Cedar Street, Lansing, Michigan. 
ACID SOILS—Use lime. Lime is not a fertilizer, but is of 
benefit to the soil through its physical and chemical effects. 
Should be applied once every three years to land which is in- 
clined to become sour. The most practical type of lime to use 
is raw ground limestone and air-slacked lime. Limestone may 
be bought, is safe to use and is effective. Lime is a safe invest- 
ment and should be added to the soil whether sweet or sour be- 
cause it will improve the flavor and quality of the fruit. 
SWEET SOIL—may be changed to acid by adding sulphate 
of potash or super-phosphate to the soil. Often the addition of 
leafmold, peat or saw dust, all of which possesses acid-producing 
effect, is all that is required. 
CLAY or SANDY SOIL—Add cow manure. 
PEACH BORER 
This pest attacks peach, apricot, nectarine, and cherry trees. 
When a gum-like substance first appears on the trunk of the tree, 
this is evidence that the borer is present and must be eliminated 
at once. The gum is the bleeding of the tree after attacked by 
the borer and if not checked, the tree will eventually die. The 
moth lays her eggs around July 1st until early August. There- 
fore, watch for the first sign of gum every year to avoid compli- 
cations. 
To eradicate them, take a piece of wire or a knife and follow 
the channel until they are located. Most likely; there are more 
than one—look carefully. If the wound should be a large one, 
we suggest painting it to avoid infections. 
Prevention of Borer Attacking a Tree— 
Dig around the base of the trunk for about 2 inches and then 
cover this with some animal fat or some other fatty substance up 
about 10 inches, this forming a coat and preventing the borer 
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