henialtes) 
* 
_ put in first, then covered with an inch of earth, over which, the fertil- 
izer may be spread. Or the fertilizer may be applied in shallow 
trenches along side the row when the spikes are coming. A sheep fér- 
tilizer is good for application in this manner when spikes are coming. 
Of course, the scientific approach to this business of fertilizing would . 
be to have samples of the soil analyzed py a soil chemist, which may 
be arranged for through the Farm Bureau, or the High School in- 
structor in Agriculture. 
7. CULTIVATION. No plant! responds more appreciatively to 
good cultivation than the gladiolus. Keep the soil loose at all times, 
_ especially during dry spells. Many make the mistake of sprinkling © 
their glads. This is more harmful than beneficial. If you irrigate be 
sure to wet the soil six to eight inches down, and then only once in 
.ten days or two weeks. However, stir the top soil following irrigation 
as soon as the soil will permit. 
8 FIELD OBSERVATIONS. Always keep your eye open for 
diseased plants. If one shows leaves dying, pull it up and burn so it 
will not further infect the soil. Watch your labels. Watch for strays 
amongst your named varieties, and pull them out. 
9. CUTTING AND CURING THE SPIKES. Cut preferably in 
the morning. Put spikes in fresh water and in a cool place at once, 
and leave them there for some time to regain circulation of moisture 
through the stem. It increases the life of the bouquet if they are 
set in a cool place at night, and given fresh water in the morning, 
after having cut the stem back an inch or so, and cut on a slant. 
When several florets are withered, break out the tips and put in shal- 
low bowls, and you may have a lovely table decoration for another 
week. 
10. DIGGING. Dig bulbs while the foliage is still green, and be- 
fore there is danger of the ground freezing. Cut tops off immediately 
when lifted from the ground, and as close to the bulb as is possible. 
Burn all tops to reduce the spread of disease and thrip. Place the 
bulbs in a cool, well ventilated, shady place to dry before putting 
them in their winter storage. 
11. CLEANING. In a few weeks, perhaps four or five, the old 
roots will easily break off of the new bulbs. Do this: burn the old s, 
roots, sift out the dirt, and place the bulbs in your winter containers. 
Save the bulblets if you are interested in growing your own increase 
of stock. 
12. WINTER STORAGE. The bulbs Sena now be placed in a 
_ ‘place safe from freezing. Any place that winters vegetables, potatoes 
and such like in good condition is O. K. Too warm storage will induce 
_ early sprouting which will weaken the bulb if it goes too far before 
planting. The ideal temperature is about 40 degrees. Bulbs should 
never be piled more than three inches deep in their storage boxes. 
13. DISEASE And THRIPS CONTROL. The giad is subject to 
several fungus diseases, scabs and rot. It is also pestered by a tiny 
insect called Thrips which may do great damage to the flowers. How- ~ 
ever, care in the raising of glads will largely prevent these troubles. 

