2 PATHFINDER GLAD GARDENS 

TIME TO PLANT—Gladioli may be planted over a long period of time. They are 
semi-hardy and can withstand light frosts. In Nebraska one can feel quite 
safe in planting any time from the middle of April until the first of July. To pro- 
long the blooming period make successive plantings every few weeks, and plant 
the early varieties first, and the late varieties last. 
The bulbs may be planted from three to six inches deep. Bulblets from two 
to three inches deep. Shallow planting facilitates Cigging in the fall, but leaves 
the plant at the mercy of drouth and wind throughout the summer. As a general 
rule one may plant deeper in light, sandy soil, and shallower in heavy clays. 
CULTURE—If you want clean, healthy bulbs, free of scab, be careful of your 
fertilizers. The best fertilizer is well rotted cow manure. It should be well 
mixed with the soil, preferably the fall before. Never allow chemical fertilizers 
to come into direct contact with your bulbs. Either work it into the bottom of the 
trench, with a layer of dirt between the bulbs and the fertilizer, or work it into 
the soil beside the rows after the plants are up. 
Glads should be planted in the open, away from shrubs and trees. When the 
‘plants come up they should be kept constantly free of weeds. You cannot hoe or 
cultivate too often, but the cultivation should be shallow in order to avoid injury 
to the roots. Never allow a crust to form after watering, or after a rain. 
Glad bulbs require plenty of water, but should not be planted in soggy, un- 
drained soil. Never sprinkle lightly, soak the ground so that there is moisture 
down around the roots. 
DISEASES AND PESTS—Glads are particularly hardy, and can be successfully 
grown by any willing gardener. However, they have a few diseases, and one 
“nest,” against which every glad grower should guard. There are several kinds 
of scab and dry rot to which glad bulbs are subject. They are very much like po- 
tatoes in that clean bulbs, planted on clean land each year, will never contract 
scab, unless you have unwisely used too much fresh manure, or allowed chemical 
fertilizers to touch the bulbs. I heartily recommend that all glad growers disin- 
fect their bulbs before planting. One of the best disinfectants is bichloride of mer- 
cury, often called corrosive sublimate. Dissolve one ounce in a little warm water, 
add this to about eight gallons of water. Remember, corrosive sublimate is a deadly 
poison, and it attacks metal. Mix the above solution in a wooden tub, or an old jar. 
Stir with a wooden paddle. Place bulbs in a sack and hold under the solution with 
a board weighted with rocks. Soak for at least eight hours. I soak over night, and 
plant the next morning. If a large quantity of bulbs are being disinfected it is 
best to make a new solution after each batch has been soaked, or else add one half 
of the original strength. 
New Improved Ceresan is also a good disinfectant. It is a serious poison, but 
may be mixed in a metal container. I use % lb. of the powder, and one ounce (or 
3 heaping tablespoons) of Dreft to 25 gallons of water. Add water, a little at a 
time, to powder, and stir until powder is held in suspension. Do not breathe the 
dust, or get paste on the hands. The final solution does no serious injury to the 
hands. Soak bulbs. for 15 minutes, bulblets for 30 minutes, and plant the same 
day.. Wash powder. off from all unplanted bulbs. This treatment is probably not | 
effective as.a-thrips treatment since time of soaking. is too short...Most grow- 
ers do not soak more than three batches of bulbs before replacing the mixture. 
The Bichloride of Mercury treatment is effective in killing any thrips, or thrips — 
eggs, which may be found on the bulb at planting time. Due to proper methods of 
control, the thrips menace is disappearing. However, it is easier to prevent this 
menace than to cure it. Thrips destroy the foliage and prevent blooming; then, 
they may harbor on the bulbs through winter storage. They multiply rapidly at 
temperatures above 50 degrees. If you wish to be safe I advise the following 
four-fold line of attack. 
First, use every precaution not to have any thrips on your bulbs at digging 
time. Leave all tops in the field, and burn as soon as possible. 
Second, assume that some did get on your bulbs, and that you have them in 
storage. Large growers will fumigate with gas. Small growers will use the safer 
Napthalene treatment. This is to be used during storage only, while the bulbs are 
dormant. Sprinkle one ounce of flakes per hundred large bulbs. Do not place on 
the bulbs until they are thoroughly cured, and be sure to shake out before the 
