29 
HOW TO PLANT EVERGREENS 
From the illustration on the left, you will note 
the dug hole is somewhat deeper and wider than 
the depth and width of the ball respectively. 
This is necessary so that good, loose, well pul- 
verized soil can be underneath the evergreen as 
well as around it. The tree should be set an inch 
or so loWer than the ground level, or so the top 
of the burlap is barely under the ground level. 
The slight cup around the tree will then serve 
as a water basin for future watering purposes. 
Avoid making this too pronounced however. 
Be sure the evergreen is properly set before, 
attempting to fill in the soil around the tree. 
Wherever possible, it is advisable to place the 
end of the hose down in the hole near the bot- 
tom of the tree before filling in the soil. After 
the fill in, to a height somewhat higher than 
ground level, turn on the water. After the water 
rises above the soil, pull out the hose and allow 
the water to seep away, which it will gradually. 
This method of planting will eliminate any air 
pockets. It is advisable to add a little extra soil 
on top afterwards. This will stop the baking 
around the tree. Do not remove the burlap, or use fertilizer. 
Deep irrigation on evergreens, of a slight dribble for several hours, is 
preferable to the regular sprinkling method and should be done every week 
to ten days, according to weather conditions. 

HOW TO PLANT AND TRIM ROSES 
The top illustration to the right shows the correct way of planting a 
rose. It also shows the way a rose should be cut back when planted. The 
bottom illustration shows the improper way to plant a rose. Please note 
that the knob or bud in the top illustration, as well as the forks of the plant, 
are slightly under the ground level. The bud of a grafted rose should al- 
ways be planted from 1% to 2% inches under the ground level, preferably 
the latter figure. The bottom illustration shows this bud planted above 
ground, and of consequence a perfect chance of freezing out over the first 
winter. Also note the crowded condition of the roots which are not allowed 
to expand normally, as well as the hard pan at the bottom of the hole, which 
should be loosened for better root action. Too 
shallow planting in a large per cent of the cases 
is the cause of the plant freezing out and suck- 
ers coming from the roots and ‘‘going to the wild 
rose’ as it is so commonly called. 
At least in Colorado, roses should never be 
pruned or trimmed back in the fall; either 
climbers or bush roses. Any cutting back of 
roses should be done about the time the growth 
starts in the spring, and then remove the dead 
wood only, except in bush roses, where they’ve 
gone through a favorable winter and consider- 
able live wood is still on the plant; it is then 
advisable to cut back to about six or eight inches 
above the ground. 
Watering, fertilization and cultivation, out- 
side of good stock to start with, are perhaps 
the most vital factors in the production of good 
blooms. Cow fertilizer is the safest to use, and 
deep irrigation as shown in the last paragraph 
of “how to plant evergreens’’ is advisable. The 
soil should be frequently aerated by deep hoing 
or cultivation, but not until the ground is suf- 
ficiently dried out after watering. 




