eta ty biG ALTA OIG 27 

sack around top of stake. Do not allow top of stake to become immersed in the solution. 
Plant while bulbs are still wet. 
WHICH DISINFECTANT TO USE: 
LYSOL. For most amateurs Lysol is the most satisfactory. Available in any drug 
store. The solution is easily prepared and is not so highly poisonous. Use 4 table- 
spoon measures to 3 gallons or 1 pint to 25 gallons. Soak bulbs at least 3 hours and 
no longer than 6. Soak bulblets over night or 12 to 15 hours. Allow to drain for about 30. 
minutes and plant the same day. According to the manufacturer the strength of the 
solution is not weakened by re-use. To be on the safe side discard after 3 usings. 
NEW IMPROVED CERESAN. For those with larger quantities New Improved Ceresan 
has come to be the standard dip. Formula 1 oz. N. I. Ceresan 3 teaspoons of Grasseli 
Spreader-Sticker, or 1 level tablespoon Dreft to 3 gal. of water. For larger quantities 
ly lb. of N. I. Ceresan, 5 tablespoons Grasseli Spreader-Sticker, or 3 heaping tablespoons 
of Dreft to 25 gal. of water. Soak bulbs 15 minutes, soak bulblets 30 minutes. Let drain 
and plant the same day. Mix the Ceresan with spreader and wetting agent (Grasseli 
Spreader-Sticker or Dreft) together first until a paste is formed. Mix with wooden paddle, 
do not use hands as it can cause serious burns. Dissolve the paste in the water. Bulbs 
treated with the dissolved solution can be handled safely. 
CULTIVATING. Work the ground well all summer. Loosen it well after heavy rains 
and keep a good dust mulch during dry weather. Cultivate shallowly when the roots 
begin to spread. 
CUTTING. The gladiolus is essentially a cut flower. Leave as many leaves as possible: 
at least 4 or 5. Cut on the slant and when the first flower is beginning to open. Your 
bulbs will mature better if the flowers are cut. 
WATERING. During hot dry spells a thorough watering once a week will give 
gratifying results. Watering just before blooming will give better flowers. Cultivate 
soil as soon as possible after watering. 
FERTILIZING. Glads are not heavy feeders but will respond to generous treatment. 
At planting time a handful to about 10 feet of row is sprinkled over the partly covered 
trench. A side dressing or two before blooming is recommended. Do not let the fertilizer 
touch the plant or root. Stay 6 inches away from the plant. Work fertilizer in ground 
lightly. We dig a shallow trench, apply fertilizer and cover up again. Fertilize just 
before a rain or soak in well with hose. Any well balanced fertilizer is recommended. 
Any commercial brand as Vigoro or Growmore wil! do. I try to get one that will 
approximate the following formula, 6—12—8. The first number represents the per- 
centage of nitrogen that is available. The second, phosphorous and the last is potash. 
Phosphorus makes for root growth, nitrogen for top growth, leaves and bloom, while 
potash contributes to general health, resistance to disease, etc. Most of our soils 
especially in the East are efficient in humus, and peat moss is a great aid in building 
up this lack, retaining moisture in light sandy soils and loosening up the heavy clay 
loams. Black loams do nct need humus. Peat is especially valuable in growing choice 
bulblets or gladiolus seed. 
SPRAYING. Thrips are the gladiolus worst enemy. The thrip is a small black insect 
about the size of a pencil mark and one-sixteenth inch long. The immature are small 
and yellowish. They cause small silvery patches on the foiliage and flowers. If they are 
bad the buds do not open, turning to a dull brown. The first preventative against the thrip 

74 Gladiolus Corsage 
