is stopped at this stage the bulbs will 
keep poorly and lack vitality the next 
season. 
Barnyard manure is excellent if 
applied in the fall or early spring. 
The addition of about 100 lbs. of sup- 
erphosphate to each ton of manure 
will increase the value of both. Ac- 
cording to the latest information the 
best Commercial fertilizer for wuiah 
is a 4-16-4 mixture, that is, 4 parts 
Nitrogen, 16 parts Phosphorous and 
4 parts Potash or mixtures of similar 
proportions, applied as a side dress- 
ing after the plants are up anw .'m- 
mediately followed by an irrigation. 
Successive applications may be ap- 
plied with good results providing 
plants are well watered after each 
application. Apply 2 to 4 pounds pér 
100 feet of row. If more than two 
applications are used less fertilizer 
per application is needed. NOTE: 
Do not let manure or other fertilizer 
come in direct contact with the bulb 
or plant as serious injury will resulf. 
SPRAYING 
If allowed to, thrips may attack 
glads at any stage, in storage or in the 
field, so it is well to spray the young 
plants as soon as they are up six to 
eight inches high and every two weeks 
thereafter until they bloom, as a pre- 
ventative measure or if: thrips are 
definitely present spray every week. 
Spray Formula: 
D.D.T. wettable dust as per direc- 
tions, or 242% to 5% D.D.T. dusting 
powder. 
DIGGING AND CURING 
Six to eight weeks after the bulbs 
are through blooming they should be 
ready for digging. Most varieties can 
be left longer but should be dug while 
there is still some green in the foliage 
as dormant bulbs have little or no 
resistance to attack if left in the 
ground after growth = stops. The 
little bulblets drop loose from the 
mother bulb as it ripens thus making 
these much more difficult to harvest 
if the bulbs are left too long. It is 
also much easier to harvest the bulbs 
if the tops are green enough to in- 
sure their having strength to lift the 
bulbs from the ground as they are 
loosened with a shovel or spadifig 
fork. Cut off tops close to the bulbs 
and place in trays or other contain- 
ers. Do not pile them more than two 
or three bulbs deep and place them 
in a warm airy place where they will 
be protected from storm and frost 
until they are dry. If conditions are 
right they should dry in two to four 
weeks. It is now time to clean the 
old roots and mummified bulb from 
last year off the new bulb. If clean- 
ing is done at the right time it is much 
easier than if attempted too soon or 
late. It is best to burn this discarded 
material as well as the tops as they 
are sources of thrips and other infes- 
tations if left on the ground. As soon 
as the bulbs are cleaned they are 
ready for winter storage. 
CARE OF BLOOMS 
As cut flowers glads are supreme. 
Cut them when one or two florets are 
open, use a sharp knife slipping the 
blade down the sides of the stem to 
loosen the foliage if long stems are 
desired, then a turn of the wrist and 
a little pressure will sever the stem 
and leave the leaves with the bulb 
which is so necessary to produce a 
large healthy bulb for the next year. 
At least five leaves must remain on 
the bulb to insure its continued 
growth. As soon after the flowers 
are cut place them in a deep clean 
container of cold water. After each 
change of water, cut about one inch 
off the stem and remove any wilted 
florets. Treated this way glads will 
be attractive for ten days to two 
weeks. 
If left in the field remove the wilt- 
ed florets each day and cut out the 
flower head or spike when through 
blooming, this will cause the plant 
to put all its effort toward making a 
better bulb. 
(42) 
